Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Den001,

The Rb30's require a larger turbo to obtain the lag and then hard ramp on to boost you are referring too.

That same turbo on the rb25 or 26.. lag lag lag bang kick in the arse. Its the nature of increased displacement. Boost is developed over a wider rpm range.

To clarify.. is that 652rwhp or fly hp?

thats good power but for that ammount of boost, i think there is somthing wrong

I tend to agree, a 3L with a gt34r running over 30psi and only making 360ish rwkw?

Are you sure all 6 cylinders are firing?

cheers guys.

firstly fuel car is running shell v - power 98ron pump fuel.

second. it has 2 in tank tomei fuel pumps wired seperately to two relays.both relays are working and both pumps are working

we checked that plus fuel pressure is 3.5 bar too.

graphs i will put up when matt @ the racing line finally gets the car to run..

2.17 bar is not what i will run

the car is mapped for 1.5bar 590bhp/540lbs @ 5500rpm @ the fly

also 1.8bar 620bhp/585lbs @ 5500rpm @ the fly..

the graphs look like the evo graphs, torque and bhp follow each other to the top, car makes boost from 2800rpm climbs quick and steep from 3500rpm.redline at 7000

you are all right for that boost i would have expected 700bhp @ the fly and maybe 600lbs torque.cant understand why bhp is the same as torque.

when i get the graphs i will see more but at 1.8 bar it made 500bhp @ the treads which he says is 620 @ the fly..

bernie. any comments from you guys or tuners would help.

the electrical problem has got all the tuners baffled here.

if this helps the tuner, if you set the fuel map up say from 1000-5000 rpm and the afr goes from 15 at 1000rpm to 11 at 5000rpm, then let the revs drop back to idle. and do it again this time without altering anything at 1000rpm fuel is 20 and as you rev it up it goes up and down reaching 30 in some cases.>>>???? bernie

Edited by rockabilly

26psi.. 500rwhp so around 373rwkw + given its a 4wd dyno so saps just a tinny little bit more power out of the final figure.

Its close enough bah.. Only a dyno figure.

I'm sure it feels fast and will break 3rd gear if your not carefull. lol

What spec cams are you running?

With a s1 R33 25det VVT head can the bulky inlet cam gear be changed to an Rb20 or adjustable one and still retain VVT?

Reason being I'm trying to make it look like an RB20, ie cam covers, coil cover and timing belt cover.

Edited by Alf
With a s1 R33 25det VVT head can the bulky inlet cam gear be changed to an Rb20 or adjustable one and still retain VVT?

Reason being I'm trying to make it look like an RB20, ie cam covers, coil cover and timing belt cover.

the bulky inlet cam is the major part of the vvt, so you would lose vvt by removing it.

If you want it to look like an RB20, then find an rb25de and put all the rb20 dress up gear on it.

It is the cam gear on the inlet side that operates the VVT - so removing it or the camshaft itself will stop the VVT.

You can run a std cam in the inlet with a std cam gear or adjustable one ( so you can use the STD rb20 cover etc ) but you will lose the vvt option.

Den001,

The Rb30's require a larger turbo to obtain the lag and then hard ramp on to boost you are referring too.

That same turbo on the rb25 or 26.. lag lag lag bang kick in the arse. Its the nature of increased displacement. Boost is developed over a wider rpm range.

To clarify.. is that 652rwhp or fly hp?

i understand and agree with you totally, but look at the boost its running, thats big boost, for that amount of psi going thru the motor, you would think that the turbo would come into its own and it would be in its efficiency range by far..... have a look at the clip again... listen to the turbo ramping and then listen to the revs of the motor, there is not real much positive gain from the forced induction.... this is what i mean..

im not bagging the motor, it makes power, but the way it makes it is doesnt seem right, to me it seems like its a massivly decompressed motor obviously making the power but look at the boost its eating, it revs way to slow, it eats 2.1bar boost and all on 98 pump fuel.... this is the characheristics of a decompredded motor...

im building a 30/26 now, with 8.8-1 comp.. and i tell you when it comes on boost it will come on... and it will be a t04z with a 1.0rear.... and the aim wil be to make it rev like this machine....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caoHNZFufHU

this is how the engines should be set up... rb30 have in my eyes a very good rod ratio... 1.8-1. if you car rev out a 26 so hard there is no reason why you cant do it to a 30... especially with a twin cam head...

i understand and agree with you totally, but look at the boost its running, thats big boost, for that amount of psi going thru the motor, you would think that the turbo would come into its own and it would be in its efficiency range by far..... have a look at the clip again... listen to the turbo ramping and then listen to the revs of the motor, there is not real much positive gain from the forced induction.... this is what i mean..

im not bagging the motor, it makes power, but the way it makes it is doesnt seem right, to me it seems like its a massivly decompressed motor obviously making the power but look at the boost its eating, it revs way to slow, it eats 2.1bar boost and all on 98 pump fuel.... this is the characheristics of a decompredded motor...

im building a 30/26 now, with 8.8-1 comp.. and i tell you when it comes on boost it will come on... and it will be a t04z with a 1.0rear.... and the aim wil be to make it rev like this machine....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caoHNZFufHU

this is how the engines should be set up... rb30 have in my eyes a very good rod ratio... 1.8-1. if you car rev out a 26 so hard there is no reason why you cant do it to a 30... especially with a twin cam head...

Considering its only a 600hp turbo 650hp isn't a bad figure. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...2R_714568_1.htm

man ive been missing out here. Gone a few weeks and everything happens. Nice power rockabilly, but thats alot of boost!

Old mate in NZ reckons he can rev out his twin cam 30's to 10k and reckons they will last.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...