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Wow what a power curve :)

What do you think you'll make with the 3076 at higher boost Al?

I'll be very happy with anything over 300rwkw.

My aim was to have as much power as my previous set-up, with more torque and response - I have already achieved that with the run-in tune :D

At 20psi, with a final tune, i may see 310-330rwkw, but time will tell.

post-1811-1205110283_thumb.jpg

Top work Al.

What do you think? Feels like a BIG NA with a nice top end? :)

Pretty much. Feels damn great, especially the torque :D

Joel, just compared your graph to mine (on the dyno comparison web page) and you have more midrange; is that your final tune and how much boost are you running?

Has anyone fitted a high energy HE2112 VL 3.0L Commodore Super Pan $458.53* into a 32 without having to use a custom made front sway bar?

http://highenergy.com.au/index.php?module=...5539231984-1177

1105702755453-8851.jpg

A few pages back, Al had problems with his HE8124 Pro-Circuit 3.0 VL/Nissan, 4 Gates, 7L, P/Up clearing the sway bar.

You need to replace the front swaybar bar for both the 6.5 litre and 8 litre HE sumps. I designed the bars for them and for dry sump equipped RB's a couple of years ago. Quite a few sold now, for example Giant used one at Tsukuba last year. PM me for details.

Cheers

Gary

Al im sure you've probably mentioned this somewhere before, but what exhaust A/R are you using? 1.06??

0.83

I chose the components to achieve great response, as i like to use the car for motokahnas, soon to do a few hill climbs and a few track days.

Big power was never my goal :P

Pretty much. Feels damn great, especially the torque :P

Joel, just compared your graph to mine (on the dyno comparison web page) and you have more midrange; is that your final tune and how much boost are you running?

Whats the link I've lost it. :)

Mine isn't the best comparison as it runs a shorter diff ratio 4.363:1 + due to the lazy actuator it wasn't making 15psi until 4500rpm on the dyno. ~11psi at 3000rpm.

I had a cheap ball/spring bleeder on it which was taken off due to the rb20det gearbox; it brought boost on MUCH earlier; we saw 19psi by ~3200rpm which tailed off to 17psi by peak power where we saw a peak of 285rwkw. So 17psi 285rwkw.

The curve was a bit wobbly due to something strange going on. Shaun said it was airflow related and most likely related to the small cams (240dur in 232dur exh). I have since measured the intercooler piping which I've discovered the OD is only 50m :S

So 2" IC piping I'd say is the issue. I had it fitted ~6years ago when 200rwkw was the now 400rwkw. :)

I'm sorting an FMIC for it now + ebc and baby cams all to go in so fingers crossed with the std exh. manifold we can push 300rwkw out of it.

Would love to get a hold of a hks cast manifold :)

http://sau.garagespank.com/login.php

Mavric had a HKS manifold for sale, not sure if he sold it yet :D

Whats the link I've lost it. :thumbsup:

Mine isn't the best comparison as it runs a shorter diff ratio 4.363:1 + due to the lazy actuator it wasn't making 15psi until 4500rpm on the dyno. ~11psi at 3000rpm.

I had a cheap ball/spring bleeder on it which was taken off due to the rb20det gearbox; it brought boost on MUCH earlier; we saw 19psi by ~3200rpm which tailed off to 17psi by peak power where we saw a peak of 285rwkw. So 17psi 285rwkw.

The curve was a bit wobbly due to something strange going on. Shaun said it was airflow related and most likely related to the small cams (240dur in 232dur exh). I have since measured the intercooler piping which I've discovered the OD is only 50m :S

So 2" IC piping I'd say is the issue. I had it fitted ~6years ago when 200rwkw was the now 400rwkw. :)

I'm sorting an FMIC for it now + ebc and baby cams all to go in so fingers crossed with the std exh. manifold we can push 300rwkw out of it.

Would love to get a hold of a hks cast manifold :(

Hi Al

that's a great result. also the under bonnet shots show off a lot of neatness eg the airbox. very naace, i like. whats the small rubber tube coming to/from the airbox?

cheers

Thanks mate. As much effort was spent on making the bay look neat as making the engine strong and reliable.

The hose to the airbox is the "breather hose" from the catch can, in the top right corner. Just like factory, it is plumbed into the intake. The catch can is properly baffled and also drains into the H.E. sump.

For some strange reason i am particularly happy with the fitment of the washer bottle inside the guard and the snorkel coming through into the bay.

Thanks mate. As much effort was spent on making the bay look neat as making the engine strong and reliable.

The hose to the airbox is the "breather hose" from the catch can, in the top right corner. Just like factory, it is plumbed into the intake. The catch can is properly baffled and also drains into the H.E. sump.

For some strange reason i am particularly happy with the fitment of the washer bottle inside the guard and the snorkel coming through into the bay.

that's a great idea. missed the snorkel first time, i did a similar thing on a Jensen Interceptor with a commodore bottle and was equally pleased because it worked so well. can i ask what it comes from?

Well mine is back on the road; but in run-in tune. :)

Couldn't be happier, i keep grinning every time i press the GO peddle.

Below is a few pics of the completed engine bay and the run-in tune. The boost is very responsive, and that's only controlled by the actuator (no bleed valve, EBC or restricters) Once i have completed 1000km, it will be wound up to 20psi, then the fun really begins :thumbsup:

looks fantastic mate!

Wish mine was on the road, just waiting on the workshop to pull finger from arse and get it done...

I pick mine up late next week :) I didn't realise how expensive it would be. My RB20 cost 4.5k and i have spent 12k just on parts with the new engine and still have to pay for the machining. I did go a bit crazy with name brand parts tho :thumbsup: Check out the relief work to clear the cam lobes.

post-24062-1205204800_thumb.jpg post-24062-1205204815_thumb.jpg post-24062-1205204875_thumb.jpg

With regards to previous page where i asked about Engine management. I dont mind the sound of the Autronic. Thanks guys.

post-20486-1205227906_thumb.jpg

My pistons arrived today.

For those that dont know I asked to have them made for a pin diameter of 22mm. When I got them they were 21mm. I also noticed that the small ends on my rods were 1" thick over the standard .857" for all other aftermarket (and stock) connecting rods so nothing really suited. I sent them back to CP. They were remade within a week and delivered to my door today at no extra cost.

I am so happy to see that my rods now fit!

that's a great idea. missed the snorkel first time, i did a similar thing on a Jensen Interceptor with a commodore bottle and was equally pleased because it worked so well. can i ask what it comes from?

I think it came off a Honda Accord or maybe a Prelude. Not too sure as my mate got it from his father's wrecking yard and he just searched through a stash of different water bottles.

Al, Is that just paint on the intake piping/intake plennum?

Nope...:P

All pipes, plenum, brackets, catch can, cam covers, power steering reserviour, etc have been powder coated.

RB120WHY: Looks like it's going to be one very aggressive engine, keep us posted :)

looks fantastic mate!

Wish mine was on the road, just waiting on the workshop to pull finger from arse and get it done...

It's taken 12-13 months, but most the delays were due to other w/shops

ie: - 3 months for the block machiniest

ie: - 17 weeks to finally get a good sump H.E. -> ETM -> H.E.

ie: - 5 weeks for the engine bay to be painted

etc..

While i was waiting it was hugely frustrating, especially missing all the SAU-VIC events and cruises, but i honestly couldn't be happier with the result.

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