Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had no problems with my standard tacho, using an aftermarket ecu (wolf 3D). Are you sure something else isn't farked up? Have you tried your cluster or ecu on another car?

Havnt fired her up yet, just got the donk in last weekend. I am just trying to think of the teething issues.... I figure with the standard loom removed there will be no reading to go to the tacho, thats why I was wondering if you just hook up the tacho wire from aftermarket ecu (autronic sm4 in my case) to the wire from pin seven off the standard computer? does that sound about right? where does the standard tacho pic up its reading?

Cheers Al

Havnt fired her up yet, just got the donk in last weekend. I am just trying to think of the teething issues.... I figure with the standard loom removed there will be no reading to go to the tacho, thats why I was wondering if you just hook up the tacho wire from aftermarket ecu (autronic sm4 in my case) to the wire from pin seven off the standard computer? does that sound about right? where does the standard tacho pic up its reading?

Cheers Al

Why is the std loom removed?

Is the Autronic sm4 a "plug-in" ecu?

Honestly, i wouldn't have an idea on the technical side of ecu's/wiring/etc, but if the ecu is not a plug-in type i doubt that will work :blink:, as equipment often need to be calibrated to gages for them to work accurately.

Nah, bought the stand alone, figured changing heads to the 26 I might as well make a new loom to suit different plugs etc. Another challenge to throw into the mix I spose.....

Cant wait to get this thing running, hopefully in the next few weeks should finish all the little bits off. Guess I'll find out then if the tacho wire is gonna work (fingers crossed!)

Good effort on the new loom and stand alone. Just hope there are no issues. Have you done some continuity checks through the loom to make sure it is all good? Small thing like that can save a lot of headaches later if you are fault finding.

Looking forward to seeing her running.

So far so good I think, still got my aac & cold start valve operating, been through the new loom, traced all the wires, tagged & numbered. Got the motor in the other week so I can run the loom, many hours of torture coming I think.... Couple of weeks n should be running with any luck.

Hey all well i finaly got my car tuned all went good it made 415kw but what iv found is that when driving it tends to spit the p/s belt and alt belt im using ross pullys and also a ross blancer just wanted to know if anyone has had this problem

ill also post a clip of dyno run

hey guys,

am looking to do a 30det build myself, and been looking through the forums heaps of info and definately alot of reading which is great one way or another,i thought i would consult you guys as a few of you have already done it.well heres the story im planning on achieving 400kw

the combo im planning to use is:

forged pistons,race big end bearing,race main bearing,26dett multilayer head gasket,bottom end set,race piston rings, all gaskets replaced with new standard ones for my block

reading through the thread its said that the standard rods are tough so i thought it wouldnt need to buy forged correct?

can you see anything wrong with this set up?another issue is what head to use, i have been trying to track down a r32 rb25de head as the guide says its much easier to bolt on, but i have been told by a few people that the r33 25det head will be easier getting the power out of? can some one help. Im able to get my hands on a r33 rb25de head and planning to rebuild it with heavy duty spring etc anyway but i do not know how to disable or run oil feeds for vct is it better to keep it or get rid of it? can someone help me or guide me to somewhere it tells you how to run oil feeds and how to install a r33 head on the block?

all your help will be much appreciated

hey guys,

am looking to do a 30det build myself, and been looking through the forums heaps of info and definately alot of reading which is great one way or another,i thought i would consult you guys as a few of you have already done it.well heres the story im planning on achieving 400kw

the combo im planning to use is:

forged pistons,race big end bearing,race main bearing,26dett multilayer head gasket,bottom end set,race piston rings, all gaskets replaced with new standard ones for my block

reading through the thread its said that the standard rods are tough so i thought it wouldnt need to buy forged correct?

can you see anything wrong with this set up?another issue is what head to use, i have been trying to track down a r32 rb25de head as the guide says its much easier to bolt on, but i have been told by a few people that the r33 25det head will be easier getting the power out of? can some one help. Im able to get my hands on a r33 rb25de head and planning to rebuild it with heavy duty spring etc anyway but i do not know how to disable or run oil feeds for vct is it better to keep it or get rid of it? can someone help me or guide me to somewhere it tells you how to run oil feeds and how to install a r33 head on the block?

all your help will be much appreciated

your R33 head will be fine you will find here on the forums a article i wrote on how to go about doing the head conversion with pictures provided in the post below by another member. . trust me it is worth doing with the 33 head.

normal head gasket is fine unless your going moster boost

link to article http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...30-t220112.html

Edited by nizmonut

hey thanks bro, i just finished reading that thread as i looked back. Yeh i thought about using the normal gasket except i want it to be running 400kw safely, not planning on opening the engine up again in the near future not for a long time. Is that goal achievable without spending too much money? My original was only 300 but after deciding using forged pistons i thought il be able to get more power out of the engine. Will the 20det gearbox be alright if i used a heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel?

You want to run 400kw with on a 25/30 with a 20 gearbox? i give it 3 trips to redline before it strips the gears. A reliable 400kw engine is not a "cheap" venture.

400kw is asking for trouble with stock rods. Get some forgies they are only ~$800 - check with a member called spoolup he sells them.

so yah rekon stick with my original plan of 300-350 on stock internals? my plan is to have a car capable of running big power when i want it to but not constantly as it will most likely be used as a daily driver also.

Edited by Redliner007
hey thanks bro, i just finished reading that thread as i looked back. Yeh i thought about using the normal gasket except i want it to be running 400kw safely, not planning on opening the engine up again in the near future not for a long time. Is that goal achievable without spending too much money?

Once you exceed the limits of std internals there is no such thing as cheap.

Keep it under 300 for reliability, forget using a 20 box.

I'me already at 15k for the running gear. :P

Edited by Alf

thanks for that, so stock internal it is. My original plan was to have someting between 300-350 but then thinking about forgies i thought i up the figures slightly. I guess the extra money will help pay for injectors,turbos etc. Which turbo would be suited best for this engine? I want a turbo which is responsive not something which you have to wait for and by the time it hits boost you have to change gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi from Canada, Both of my calipers are starting to fail. My car is a 2005 M35 Stagea ARX and I can't seem to find any parts or any cross reference caliper that would fit my car. Is there a company or a similar caliper that would fit and I could replace the OEM one. Or if anyone knows where I can find a new OEM. Any help is very appreciated. Let me know!
    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
×
×
  • Create New...