R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Jaws]

Vl's ended production in early 88 and some of them used the series 2 blocks.

I would assume the 91 rb30 would be a series 2, unless someone can correct me.

[fatz]

im running rb 26dett in my r31 skline,

i have a rb30e sitting im my r31 gxe

now my rb26 bottom end is experiencing some blow by... not bad but a little tired

would it be worth my while just rebuilding the 26 or going to the 30 option?

piston rings and bearing would be an easy job i guess but rb30dett would give it some serious poke

tough call

[slow_r31]

all r31's have series II blocks.

not sure about which vl's have em

[meggala]

hey all, im new to the forum and im just doing some research on rb30/25 conversion for my navara. i have lined up a rb30 from a 91 gts skyline and im guessing this is a gen II rb30 so will have provisions for turbo oil and water feed. is this correct? thanks for any feedback

I would make sure it fits b4 building the rb 25/30 I have heard of a few people attempting this conversion who had troubles.

meggala

[Skyrine-Dave]

ok this may sounds like a real open ended question...

but whats it going to take to make 500hp@wheels?

would it be neccessary to have forged rods?

if forged rods are used should a 7500rpm limit be kept? or will harmonics still come into play and stuff things up?

i just would like some info if i should pay an extra $500 for forged rods. I would like to get the most potential and reliability out of my motor too.

[PRIMO]

for the sake of spending an extra $500 rods would be the second most important investment to make to your engine besides forged pistons, if you want to rev it use rods.

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

some rb30 bend rods at 500hp some go to 700hp, its sometimes not a totally reliable thing.... one bloke tells you no alot of them bend rods especially if that 500hp is made using a higher comp ratio than another says its got nothing to do with anything they will see 700hp.....

personally it is a waste of money preping stock rods as this will cost 400-500, why the hell not go better rods??? oh and you should still adhere to the 7500 rpm even with good rods!!!

[Skyrine-Dave]

thanks for that info

Anymore would be good too

I'll make it a bit clearer for others.., i was wanting to know what needs to be done in terms of strength to make the 500hp.

[Bl4cK32]

How reliable do you want it is a better question

[Skyrine-Dave]

daily driven reliable

ability to wind up the wick and go racing, yet still drive it sedately everyday.

and hopefully it wont go bang after spending all this money on it

[Bl4cK32]

well im just driving mine on the weekends - all damn weekend - and have been told by a few on this board that mine, with the std rods should be reliable up to about 350rwkw...

sorry i didnt get back to you about that flywheel dave, i couldnt measure it in time before the gearbox went on

[Skyrine-Dave]

its all good

i got my issues sorted

How does it feel?!? whats the driveability like? You are using a GT35 arent you??

[Bl4cK32]

dunno yet this weekend is the first time ive had any free time to work on it, so Monday i can brag the motor is at least in the car. Going for the old "lets shoe-horn a rb31det and an r33 gearbox in a r32 at the same time" trick.....

GT35/40R will be here in 3 or so weeks, so the run in will be with the rb20 turbs (which is highflowed)....

[Jaws]

Skyrine Dave:

I'll be using aftermarket rods as i'm chasing around the same power as you, while being a daily driver.

It's better to invest a little more for peace of mind knowing that I will be wanting more power and trying to squeeze that little bit more out of it sooner or later.

Thanks for the advise on the turbo supplier, i went to MTQ engines in brisbane and they quoted me $2070 for a 600 hp rated GT3040.

I'll be picking this up on wednesday. :wassup:

[MonstaS4]

I'm thinking I may be able to use a RB20DET valve pressure reg in the RB25DE pump.

Joel, i'm still a little concerned about oil pressure. How did you go with the above setup? or did you go with something else?

I see no point in trying to find a turbo pump when i have a perfectly usable RB25DE pump. I rang nissan again today and was told you cannot buy an RB25DET valve kit, yet you can buy an RB20DET or RB30ET valve kit. :cuss: :cuss:

So i see two options: Use either of the valve kits (but which one???) or be happy with the standard RB25DE pump.

Any suggestions - apart from shelling out for a new pump?

[Cubes]

Nar can't be done..

I found a second hand R33 RB25DET pump for around $100.

They are around.. Check over at Skylines Downunder also.

[GreySky]

I finished my RB2530 conversion on Friday. I am still running the new motor in but already it feels absolutely awesome, the increase in torque has surprised me even after all the good things ive heard about it. It was a tight fit into the R32 with some minor bonnet alterations having to be done and some lengthening of the fmic piping, but it does fit. All in all it was a fairly straight forward conversion however there are a few fidly little things which take the most time to complete, well worth it though. If anyone has any questions about fitting one into an r32 feel free to message me.

Grey

[Bl4cK32]

got any specs there Greysky??

[Cubes]

So its a pop the clutch and idle away type of acceleration?

no more reving and slipping the clutch to get away at a decent rate..

Post every little mod you had to do here so we can all learn.. I'll update it in the pdf also.

[GreySky]

Ok well i hope youve got some time to read....

I used the pdf Joel created and it did help alot with the general motor building stuff. Im not sure if it has changed since i downloaded it so ill just go through most of the stuff i did and hope i dont overlap too much.

The Timing belt i used was a Gates T866 and i positioned my tensioner slighly to the left approx 4mm to that in the diagram which made it real easy to tension the belt in the correct spot. The other tensioner was placed in the idler location on the right, however as the rb30 block doesnt have a flat surface in that spot i machined up a piece of flat bar to fit into the groove and give me a flat surface to bolt my tensioner onto. This might not make much sense, but those guys doing it probably know what im talking about.

Using the r32 power steering pump mounts you will need to make up some 15mm spacers for two of the bolts as the rb30 block is slightly different to the rb20. AC bolts up fine.

Pull all the water fittings off the rb20 and screw them into the rb30. All your brackets will no longer match up being 30mm too short so have some thin metal strips and a drill handy tomake new ones as you go. This is for the hoses on the drivers side of the block which run to your heater and manifold. Use your rb20 fitting for the thermo cover and your right.

I used rb20 intake and exhaust manifolds to reduce complications, and it did. They bolted straight on and all lines etc almost matched up. On the turbo oil/water feed you will need to get a small pipe bender and change the angle and length of your lines to account for the 30mm extra lentgh. No need to buy new ones if you dont want. Oil drain needs a new longer bit of hose, make sure its oil/heat resistant.

I did this conversion attempting to keep as much original stuff as possible so i am using standard injectors and ecu. My turbo is an r34 one, which comes on boost around 2000 rpm and is definately working hard, this new motor flows like you wouldnt believe. The computer is handling the increased air flow remapping itself pretty well with good AF ratios. However I am taking it to sydney once it is run in to get tuned. I will be keeping the car like this until I buy a new computer and turbo in about 12 months.

To make it fit you'll need to cut out two small sections (approx 2 inches each) of the bonnet skeleton. My intake manifold was fouled as well as the front intercooler pipe that passes by the radiator.

Thats about all I can think of at this stage, but im sure im forgeting heaps so i can keep you posted if you want to hear it...

Cheers

Grey

P.S Although im trying to behave while im running it in, squeezing the throttle on just past half at 60ks in 2nd had the 235's screaming and me very surprised to say the least