Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unless you come across a blown RB25 then it is hard to find a RB25 head for a decent price.

The cheapest I came across was a Rb25DE head that set me back $750.

At the time that was a damn good price as others were asking 1k+ and thats if they had one.

Its a matter of luck if you come across one cheap and have the money at the time.

Darren,

The design is different.

There is no way you can but up an R33 inlet manifold to the R32 head.

If the motor is to go into something other than a skyline e.g. VL. Is it possible then, to buy say an R32 RB25DE complete engine and loom/ECU package, and combine the necessary parts etc entire top half of the motor including loom and ECU injectors, the RB30 bottom end, and an RB20DET exhaust manifold with chosen turbo ?? I have been noticing complete engine packages for around $1500. this seems the cheapest way to me, to get things running until bigger injectors and fueling requirents are needed? or am i WAY off?

hell_bound: yes, thats the idea :D I am not sure that the rb20det ex.manifold will fit though. That was my other option.. complete RB25DE which i did find a few prices and would have been around $1200 complete. Heads can be carried though, whole engines are a bitch to cart around.

sciby: your plan sounds a little similar to mine. I am going to *attempt* bolting everything together and putting it into an R32. Once its in, just get it working in basic form, iron on the kinks, etc and run a standard rb25det turbo or similar with very low boost. After that take it to a workshop and budget $6k or so and get them to build the bottom end and maybe do some work on the head, choose a big turbo, etc. At some point the gearbox also has to be converted to an RB25DET from auto.. yes its going to be a long process but hey, that is the fun :O

Yes, that also makes no sense to in/out twice, but it does take much of the labour costs out of it getting in there first time myself. Its going to be the fiddly stuff that costs workshop hours to sort out, I'd rather attempt that myself, and call in the experts where necessary or something is too difficult.

I'm almost tempted to see how the VG30 BB Turbo makes power.

Even though the compressor is slightly smaller than the rb25t turbo I wonder if the larger exhaust a/r will help prevent power nudging over at 5500rpm.

After all it does make 190kw at the flywheel on std boost on a VG30DET. :D

yes, better get the latest version.. i am reading off one dated 28th march :P

I take it that means the stock R32 RB25DE loom and ecu is able to support a turbo application e.g. correct knock sensors ?

i believe the basic loom is the same, and the plug sockets even the same.. but you will need to run a turbo ECU of some type at least, as I can't see why a n/a stocker would support turbo properly. Don't think it has the knock sensor which is a good idea for safety - so you would want to wire one in.

If I am wrong somebody correct me.

Picked up my turbo on friday :P a GT30R. Where's the best (read:cheapest) place to get blank inlet flanges. I need a couple to make an adapter for the external gate.

Also, when i put the GT30 gasket against my RB20 manifold, it appears the manifold opening is slightly larger so the gasket will not mate properly. Is the opening in the twin inlet turbo larger than the single opening? Even though they are both T3 flange.

sorry to re-hash over things guys, seeing as my combo is going into a VL , i was wondering if the R32 RB25DE loom and ecu is able to run my RB30DET combo? What i am getting at is that if buy a complete RB25DE engine and loom/ecu , then i can use the entire top end except the exhaust side, where i will fit my turbo manifold etc. any help would be extremely good !!!! or should i just buy a RB20DET engine and loom/ecu package and try to source the head buy itself??

Holes line up, height is identical, but the width is out by about 3mm both sides. I've never seen an RB20 turbo, but my guess is it is a twin inlet.

Not going for mega power due to standard RB30E internals. 400-450BHP at 15 PSI should be gettable.

Turbo is straight out of the Ballistic Concepts catalogue. Part No. SB8006A. 0.82 A/R Exh, GT40 Comp, 0.70 A/R, 64 trim.

I'm thinking of Spot welding....

 

Yeah thats actually how I am doing it.

I am using the RB30 Bottom and the Rb26 Top.. and there is only a very small gap.

I have bent the metal into shape.. and then just spot weld it on at the back. Easy.

Paint it, and it will look mint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...