Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If i am correct the 1989 GTR comes in under the 15 year rule. Is this true?

the 15yo rule has been ammended. It's now restricted to cars made in 1988 or older. and unlike before it doesn't tick forward each year. it's fixed at 1988 although in a few years they are going to push it back further still. :laugh:

R32 GTR IS elligible for SEVS though and compliance is not too expensive anymore so 32s are still viable. BUT you'd be better off with a nice V Spec or V Spec II or at least a late 93 or 94 model (post model change). They will fetch more $$ over here.

R32 GTR IS elligible for SEVS though and compliance is not too expensive anymore so 32s are still viable. BUT you'd be better off with a nice V Spec or V Spec II or at least a late 93 or 94 model (post model change). They will fetch more $$ over here

Mr Baron...can you elaborate on this please...i thought R32 were not made after 93, and Vspec ones are like rare as hell to source from Jap Land......Interested myself (Yet to sell the idea to GF with much sucess howver :yes: )

And what do you mean by POST model change ? :laugh:

R32 GTR IS elligible for SEVS though and compliance is not too expensive anymore so 32s are still viable. BUT you'd be better off with a nice V Spec or V Spec II or at least a late 93 or 94 model (post model change). They will fetch more $$ over here

Mr Baron...can you elaborate on this please...i thought R32 were not made after 93, and Vspec ones are like rare as hell to source from Jap Land......Interested myself (Yet to sell the idea to GF with much sucess howver :yes: )

And what do you mean by POST model change ? :laugh:

R32 GT-R's (As opposed to GTS-T's & other models) were made into 94.

There were a couple of minor updates during the model cycle, the second being the more significant. These cars carry the BNR-3***** build numbers.

Yes, V-spec's are available but will cost you quite a bit of extra coin. IMHO there are not worth the extra asking price....

R32 GTR IS elligible for SEVS though and compliance is not too expensive anymore so 32s are still viable. BUT you'd be better off with a nice V Spec or V Spec II or at least a late 93 or 94 model (post model change). They will fetch more $$ over here

Mr Baron...can you elaborate on this please...i thought R32 were not made after 93, and Vspec ones are like rare as hell to source from Jap Land......Interested myself (Yet to sell the idea to GF with much sucess howver :yes: )

And what do you mean by POST model change ? :laugh:

yes Vspec is rare and more expensive, but they will hold value pretty well. as will any late model. yes there are R32 GTR 94 models available as djr81 stated they made GTRs into 1994 even though they were already making R33 GTST. basically when talking R32 GTR there are two main types. pre-model change and post model change. mid 93 they performed a few minor upgrades. different crank oil pump drive and a few small updates (33GTR style gearbox with pull type clutch etc). The V spec models also have Brembo brakes and different style BBS wheels (and in 17X9 instead of 16X8) plus an upgraded ATTESA computer and an ALSD plus different suspension.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...