Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by PranK

For those interested, I had a wheel alignment and the camber was fine (apparently) but i had about 4mm toe-in which they fixed, so apparently its all good now.. lets just see how quickly i rip through my Pirrellis.

A bad toe alignment will kill your tyres 10 times quicker than high camber. Same thing happened to me, the camber even looked ok but because of front end lowering, the toe was pushed in too far (also about 4mm) and this is what killed my front tyres. My tyres had nearly full tread on the outside edge, but on the inside edge was through the steel belts before I noticed! :eek:

Hard lesson learned - whenever raising or lowering your car (or buying one that you suspect has been raised or lowered), get a wheel alignment done asap!

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

Originally posted by GET53T-GTR33

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

that would be the best cheap solution... if u dont want to purchase a rear camber kit. tyres on standard rims won't got bald as bad, on the inside of the tyres as wider rims/tyres would, (if u car is lowered).. they will but not as bad. the width of the tyres definitely affect the degree in which it would get bald.

I have this exact problem as well, I noticed my rears were down to the belts in about 6 months after purchase.

My 32 is lowered quite a bit on std rims, and it chewed them out really quick.

I was told to get all new suss @ around $2,000 (RIM ME).

So I will just do the swap over tyres from side to side until I want to pay for the real fix, I have been told that to swap over 2 rears from rim to rim is about $10...cheap as!

My tyre guy told me that it was all due to the extensive lowering.

Gilty, I was also told that I would need complete new suspension, cost $2500 minimum. I then asked my mechanic and he recommended someone else who got straight to the point and said he would only need to extend the adjustment points to enable the required reel in. Cost $600.00. Get a second opinion dude!. Anyone with a camber wear problem only needs to get these adjusters extended....that's what the camber kit does. Dont let the dodgy brothers rip you off with work that is not needed.

cheers Ozzy

The whiteline camber kit for the front of my 33 cost me $156ish I think, and about 2hrs of my time. 1.5 hrs for the first one and then half an hour for the next once I knew how to do it. Followed by a wheel alighnment of course. The rear is about the same only easier to fit. Not a big expense when compared to tires, and if you plan to do a bit a track work you can dial in a bit of camber on the Friday and get it corrected on the Monday after. Thats my plan anyway!

hmm , im going with ozzy , on this one , brand new potenzas s03

car lowered , 17 / 235 / 45 front , rear 17 / 255 /40 , so rotation was out of the question, so i phoned all the specialists over here , there is no camber adjustment for r33 gts, apart fron drilling new holes and welding plates on was going 2 cost about £100 , so i take it the specialist , nothing whong with it they say ( -1.5 degrees ) is fine , the rears where, how ever not tracking right, so all squared up now , and tyres seem ok , so far.

little tip tho , if u disconect your battery , 2 do a ecu reset , make sure the steering is pointing dead ahead , ( hicas sensor thing )

my 2 pence worth .

  • 11 months later...

Prank - when you got your toe in adjusted (all this time ago) what did you get it adjusted to? did you need an aftermarket to adjust it? or can it be adjusted with the stock GTR setup?

Anyone know what stock GTR castor and camber can be set to without an aftermarket kit?

Wow, this is an old thread. As far as I am aware there is no adjustment for caster or camber for the front standard. What you have got is what you have got. There is a small amount of adjustment for camber at the rear, though it is not enough. Camber on my car was crazy when I lowered it, definately needed the camber kits for the rear and I got them for the front too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...