Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently took my BNR32 to my local shop to install turbos (2530s), manifolds, dumps and cams and a D-JETRO Power FC. Everything went smoothly except for the cam swap. During the install the exhaust cam would not turn. A litlle too energic coaxing ended up in it snapping. Suspecting it was a problem with that cam they ordered a replacement but still no joy. The intake Poncam rotated smoothly but not the exhaust cam, even after some wet & dry work on the caps. In the end they reinstalled the original cams which rotate fine. Dissapointing as the 2530's could really do with the extra airflow to get them on boost.

Has anyone encountered a situation like this before? Are there any solutions other than line boring the head?

Andrew

my first guess would be incorrect installation. as if the cam caps are not torqued down properly and in order then this can happen. it does seem strange though that it would happen twice, and not at all on the stock cams.

The question I face is to take it to another shop in Sydney, pay for the install only to find that the first shop was right and there is a major problem that requires the head to be pulled. I will then face paying for the labour to pull and remove the standard cams a second time...

Andrew

my first guess would be incorrect installation. as if the cam caps are not torqued down properly and in order then this can happen. it does seem strange though that it would happen twice, and not at all on the stock cams.

sounds like they have swappedthe cam caps around, my machine shop did it about 4 weeks ago to mine, they snapped my cam when they bolted it in but, they swapped the cam caps around and its all good now

sounds like they have swappedthe cam caps around, my machine shop did it about 4 weeks ago to mine, they snapped my cam when they bolted it in but, they swapped the cam caps around and its all good now

yes that can happen too. as the surfaces have worn unevenly when the mix up the caps one of them is suddenly now gripping the cam. you really just need somone cluey to have a look at see where it's grabbing the cam. it's unlikely that it's a major problem with your head as if it were your stock cam wouldn't work either. the reason the stock cam is ok is that it's most likely worn down in the spots where the new one is being grabbed.

Unfortunately this isnt the first time I have heard of Poncam's snapping.

I know of around 3 other cases where this has occured, and each time the cams have been installed by experienced workshops :spank:

They actually said they tried different caps with the same result, but I cannot be sure they got them in the right order in both cases. They did go at the caps with wet and dry which suggests they were onto the issue though. No one has had a case where it was impossible to get the caps/cams to work together with a little TLC?

If so who in Sydney do you think I could take it to troubleshoot the install? I was thinking CRD this time around but am already down $800 on the first failed attempt to put these in...

Andrew

Ok heres a post to help you sort the BS from the info you need.

-You MUST keep the bearing caps with the corresponding spot or this will happen everytime.

- with GTR's you must be ULTRA attentive when pulling down the caps, you must take it slowly and do it correctly otherwise bang, snapped cam.

- You DEFINATELY can't use different bearing caps without tunnel boring otherwise, SNAP.

-You need to ensure correct torque settings are addhered to.

GTR cams are cast forgings, majority of them are not true billets, actually I have not used any true billets in any of my engines, and they are very brittle items that will snap if mis-managed.

I highly doubt you head is warped however this is easy to check, run a deck hight measurer on you head and measure the heights of the cam caps relative to the cylinder deck.

Cheers

After it snapped the first time, they ordered the replacement, fitting it. Found it was still binding. Played around trying to get it to work and then gave me the call. Pull the head and line bore the exhuast cam ($1500) or put the standard ones back in ($800).

After it snapped the first time, they ordered the replacement, fitting it. Found it was still binding. Played around trying to get it to work and then gave me the call. Pull the head and line bore the exhuast cam ($1500) or put the standard ones back in ($800).

plastigauge it to see which cap is binding?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...