Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im about to start sourcing parts to begin my build on my old 25 sitting under the house and would like to know from people who have done it, how they get there 25 to rev higher i would like to take it out to about 8500RPM if possible. motor will be forged bottom end all balanced obviuosly was thinking lightened flywheel and harmonic blancer, port and polish head, set of valve springs and i have a set of hks 264 with 8.5mm lift intake and exhaust cams that will go in as well. any other suggestions to get it to rev happily and safely.

thanks

As the others have said, the advantages of power are had earlier along, not right at the end, if you want power increase the turbo put NOS in, 8500rpm aint going to gain you much if any at that high, and all it is going to do is wear things alot much alot quicker than normal operating levels, No gain in it, pointless thread.

On another note, why dont you check out the FI dyno results, and you may just see were the power is to be had with the extensive modifications list to go with it.

Cheers A :sleep:

I only needed 8000rpm with my GT30 setup.

Was making power there, but much over that there was no point.

All depends on the setup as to wether or not you'll need 8500rpm...

So throw some more specs out to us, i would suspect you might not need that much.

was aiming at 8500 so i have alttile lee way so limiter about 8000ish will be stock crank and rods preped accordingly with forgies bottom end all balanced lightened flywheel and harmonic blancer, port and polish head, set of valve springs, set of hks 264 with 8.5mm lift intake and exhaust cams that will go in as well, add in microtech to control it all turbo i am still undecided on it will be street driven looking for 250rwkw want power and boost to come on hard and early and hold as best as possible right through to redline (where ever it set to to?)

With 250rwkw, there is no way you'll need 8500rpm dude.

A GCG hi-flow or similar (that will make 250rwkw) just isnt going to make powee up there :sleep:

Around 7000-7500 is where the fun is going to end for you so an 8000rpm limiter is going to be more than ample for your application.

cool thanks nismoid i sort of figured that may be the case but for arguements sake lets say i was to throw on something in the gt35/40 range if i have a change of heart and go stupid would you say there would be an advantage in letting it spin to 8ish

why is everyone telling him its useless or 'why' he wants to do it rather then actually trying to help him achieve what he wants to achieve regardless if its practical or not?...if its possible then why not let him do it. Its his car, engine and money and ultimately hes responsible for it all.

Everyone says there is no need to rev a 30det past 7000-7500 we send ours to 8000 with possibility to 8500 cause it just keeps making power. Sometimes having a wider powerband helps.

i think the 300 mark may be a little extreme for now any way, no reason i cant bolt on a bigger turbo down the track if i get bored and want more.

the engine is being built with more power in mind for later i think 250kw will scare me enough at the moment

average power makes a car fast, focus on that

True. That's why lifting the rev limiter is an enormous help to average power when you use a large turbo. Looks like this guy might want a GT35 and the extra revs will help a a lot with average power since there will be a lot of lag in the mid range. I'm sure with that turbo selection he wants more than 250rwkw at some time in the future.

Are GTR rods the same length? ie. no probs with pushing the pistons higher/lower in their bores?

Theres no point, but if you really want to rev that high the most popular setup is an r32 GTS-T conversion with forged internals and proper oiling mods. You could probably see 10,000 rpm safely..

Yes this setup is far superior to the rb25 in every way..

Also, this post is entirely inspired by sarcasm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...