Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the dyno results, pretty pleased but i think there is a little more in it.

The differance is GREAT though.

Here are the B4 and after graphs.

B4 (red) = Previous exhaust and K&N pod

After (blue) = New exhaust and BMC pod

Power: (Average of about 20-30rwkw gain throughout the mid range)

post-1811-1170752892.jpg

Torque: (Over 1000N of tractive torque gained at 122km/h >_< )

post-1811-1170752928.jpg

Need a new boost controller as the factory solinoid is unable to keep the boost steady with the wolf controlling it :) . So once this is done, i will get a final tune. Boost drops to about 16psi at peak, but is a little wavey all the way through.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys!

Picked it up today and boy did i enjoy it :dry:

The delivery is very smooth, but sharp/fast. Definately noticed the differance in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, the rev limiter just comes on so quickly :D , can't wait for DECA and the coming cruises.

SS8 Gohan: I truely beleive at least 90% of the gain is from the exhaust, but i have seen other cars just change pods to BMC and gained about 3-5rwkw across the curve. BMC filters are top quality and aren't cheap, apparently they are used in the F1 cars, they have great flow and filter very well.

Jetdat: Very interesting!

As you know i am using the smaller brother (gtrs) so that would probably explain the steep curve. But i also have tomei poncams and head porting, which is probably why i am making the same power and more usable power; as the power is bought on earlier and is held longer. Not sure how much boost you are running but mine peaks at 18.5psi, then tappers down to 16psi buy the time it makes peak power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/#findComment-2888913
Share on other sites

yeah i think the cams make a difference but smaller turbo also gives the curve some steepness..

cams are next on my list so hope to get improvement once installed..

look forward to some 1/4 mile times from yours and mine.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/#findComment-2888920
Share on other sites

BNC filter setup it awsome.

Its a sealed unit...flow really well and allow you to duct straight from the front bar...

Al who did u get it from, I spoke tot the BMC dist. not long back...he had to order it in and I never called him back. PM the details man...or talk to you at DECA.

Cheers.

KJ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/#findComment-2890249
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...