Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I am in the process of planning out the final few things on my build and this is one of the few things that has been making me scratch my head.

I know that the upgraded intake manifold has larger runners which allow for better airflow. Thats all good and well. However it is my understanding that most people upgrade the manifold in order to fix the problem with the #6 cylinder running lean. Since the runners are larger you dont have issues with the air being caught in the manifold.

Now here is my question:

You can easily fix the lean #6 cylinder problem with tuning. With that said, why buy a whole new intake manifold when you can relatively easily fix the problem with the existing one?

Are there any other real benefits of replacing the intake manifold in high horsepower applications? If I recall correctly there is not in a relatively mild build, however I am not sure if the same applies to high, 700+WHP, applications.

Thanks a lot guys.

-Sayajin

1) cosmetic benefits

2) simplicity for working on the motor (i.e spark plugs etc..)

3) higher flow/performance. would only probably be needed in a large hp application. standard one is fine if you can put up with it.

do a quick search, this has been covered many times.

do a quick search, this has been covered many times.

Thanks, however I would have to disagree.

The topics that were covered before all spoke of upgrading in order to fix the #6 cylinder running lean issue. I am asking, besides that are there any other benefits?

I mean you can easily tune with a standalone to fix a lean cylinder, so why spend $1000+ on something that can be fixed for free? There has to be some other benefit than just that?

Also I have yet to hear someone say they have outflown the stock one, which is another reason for my question. From what I have read, even 800WHP applications dont have any problems with airflow in the stock manifold.

Just wanna get my info straight before I start my build. Thx.

btw, someone else already mentioned 1,2 dont apply to RB26, so I wont speak on those. thx.

-Sayajin

Well RIPS makes one that also comes with the 80mm throttle body.

I am trying to decide if I want to get one or not with my new RB30. I know the RIPS one would have increased airflow and make tuning my simpler, but I dont know if it is worth the money. It costs about the same as the NISMO one....

-Sayajin

Well RIPS makes one that also comes with the 80mm throttle body.

I am trying to decide if I want to get one or not with my new RB30. I know the RIPS one would have increased airflow and make tuning my simpler, but I dont know if it is worth the money. It costs about the same as the NISMO one....

-Sayajin

How do you know it makes more power? Have you seen Dyno plots or just presumed it does? Id personally go for something thats known to work rather than something custom you know little about.

Correct.

My main purpose would be for tuning.

The runners are bigger on the RIPS one IE increased airflow. I dont know if it will actually make more power, I just know it flows more air. Like I said.... I am still up in the air about it, but I am seriously leaning towards getting it just to be sure.... possibly..... maybe...... ahh im not sure!

-Sayajin

Correct.

My main purpose would be for tuning.

The runners are bigger on the RIPS one IE increased airflow. I dont know if it will actually make more power, I just know it flows more air. Like I said.... I am still up in the air about it, but I am seriously leaning towards getting it just to be sure.... possibly..... maybe...... ahh im not sure!

-Sayajin

Last time i checked RIPS uses the standard intake runners. Ill ask his Fab man tomorrow at the drags to confirm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...