Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I finally got around to getting my guages installed.

Full credit goes to Maroun(spelling) & the boys down at Race Solutions in Penrith.

Has anybody installed an autoguage A/F ratio guage that has the warning light? I need to know how to turn off the warning buzzer as it's really starting to tick me off. The instructions say to refer to back page but there was never a back page when I bought lol.

post-29425-1171276040.jpgpost-29425-1171276114.jpgpost-29425-1171276329.jpgpost-29425-1171276396.jpgpost-29425-1171276460.jpg

Edited by Yo-Yo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156040-just-jap-autometer-guages/
Share on other sites

I have to say, that install looks awesome mate :laugh:

Cheers! :)

As I said before, Full credit to the team at Race Solutions (next to HITMAN) in Penrith.

It was a bit complicated to get them fitted, the stock guages are a single piece with a flat window that sits behind the pod holes. They had to make a custom mounting bracket to fit them properly.

I'm very pleased with the result :D .

how come u didnt match em? they look crazi dont get me wrong but i would of matched em all.

how much did u pay for em all was thinkin about upgrading aswell

are you serious? If you look at the pictures it seems like the A/F guage changes colour...

PS awesome install and guages, ordinary pictures! :D

are you serious? If you look at the pictures it seems like the A/F guage changes colour...

PS awesome install and guages, ordinary pictures! :D

The original pics are about 2-3 megs lol :laugh: Some people still use dial up you know :)

how come u didnt match em? they look crazi dont get me wrong but i would of matched em all.

how much did u pay for em all was thinkin about upgrading aswell

Thanks for all the replies Guys. Keep 'em coming.

Andru, they are all the same colour, I'm guessing the a/f guage turns red when the warning light goes off a certain number of times. Maybe it's to distinguish that guage to let you know something funny is going on. Don't know why it turned on, The engine was off & had the car on ACC :O only happened once so far.

Cost of install all up was $450. Worth it when you consider the final finish of the install & the fact that there was a bit more customisation compared to a regular guage install.

Cheers everyone! :dry:

Love the gauge carrier....do they do one for the R33 ??

That's the stock centre console guage cluster for the r34. You could probably buy a triple guage cluster & mount it in a similar position, but it won't look as good.

A defect in NSW too if the guages go above the steering wheel I think (Edit, Just read you're from the UK lol)

Edited by Yo-Yo
  • 5 months later...

Its probably doing it because your engine was off. I have the same A/F guage, except without the warning light. If the engine is off, the reading will obviously be low. If the engine is on, and the reading is still low and the warning light on, then I'd say you o2 sensor is gone. Thats what happened to me when I had mine installed. Once the o2 is changed, its all good :thumbsup:

Good luck... great looking install :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...