Jump to content
SAU Community

Crazy Idle On R34 Gtt

Bass Junky

By Bass Junky,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hey ppls,

I've picked up a crazy idle problem on my R34 GTT.

After a blisteringly fast run at the back track at Deca on the weekend, I seem you have picked up an idle that goes like this.....

1500-1900 rpm, consistant and precise rev between those rpm.

1 second between revs going up and revs coming down.

I have spoken to a couple of well regarded tuners about it and they have both told me the same thing...

I've checked all vacuum/boost lines and nothing that I can see is broken or come off.

AAC seems to be working properly because the thing it hunting for the right idle, hence, working.

Can anyone guess what it is, or has this happened to anyone else? How have you fixed it?

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156116-crazy-idle-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites
gtst93 Collaborator

gtst93

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's the iac valve your wax pellet is stuffed I just went through the same thing with mine.

A quick test is to get a pair of multi-grips and slowly clamp the big black hose that goes between the aac valve and your intercooler pipe and your idle should drop back to normal.

Edited by gtst93
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

in the tutorial section is a parts thread by me

look in there, it has the aac valve parts

speak to nissan, it cant be too much

no more than $50 ?

just remembered the part no# is for ecr33, not sure if its diff for er34

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Wax pellet? The AAC in the R34's is a stepper motor that regulates the air flow, positive feedback hence idle regulation.

When my one got stuck open it gave a high idle, it was the piston on the stepper motor literally coked-up with carbon and grime.

I completely stripped it down and clean it, bang perfect!!!

I think the JUN R34 had the same issue.

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted

I've had a similar issue previously, i adjusted the injector pulse by increasing the ms with the hand controller and it went away. When the problem happens, you may notice turning on the air con makes it stop, or vise versa. weird shit.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

okay.

Pulled the ACC manifold and assembly out after work today.

Found that the plunger from the coolant bit had snapped. Photos demonstrate what I mean.

I have a replacement loaner, but will get myself a new plunger and refit mine eventually.

Here are pics to show.

post-6399-1171436404.jpg

post-6399-1171436432.jpg

post-6399-1171436521.jpg

  • 12 years later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi all , I know this is an old thread but does anyone know how to get that cap out on the cold start piston side .

We made a pin tool up but that cap is crazy tight . I'm reluctant to heat the casting up because of the seal that lives inside where the idle speed magnet solenoid gadget goes .

Thanks in advance , cheers from Adrian .

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi GTSBoy , we are still struggling with these three pin hole plugs that go over the cold start spring and wax pellet piston thing . We made up a two pin tool and even extended its length for more leverage . All it did was bend the pins , these things are stupid tight .

I have an R34 NA Neo IAC assembly as well as a complete Neo turbo inlet manifold . Neither of the plugs is even looking like moving . If you still have your tool could you post a pic of it please .

Cheers from Adrian . 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Sorry mate. I handed to my bro-in-law, in his workshop, and he handed it back to me about 2 minutes later with the plugs all out. We proceeded to bathe it liberally in the most aggressive solvents we could find, then reassembled. From what I gathered, it wasn't hard to get it apart.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...