Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

I've picked up a crazy idle problem on my R34 GTT.

After a blisteringly fast run at the back track at Deca on the weekend, I seem you have picked up an idle that goes like this.....

1500-1900 rpm, consistant and precise rev between those rpm.

1 second between revs going up and revs coming down.

I have spoken to a couple of well regarded tuners about it and they have both told me the same thing...

I've checked all vacuum/boost lines and nothing that I can see is broken or come off.

AAC seems to be working properly because the thing it hunting for the right idle, hence, working.

Can anyone guess what it is, or has this happened to anyone else? How have you fixed it?

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156116-crazy-idle-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

It's the iac valve your wax pellet is stuffed I just went through the same thing with mine.

A quick test is to get a pair of multi-grips and slowly clamp the big black hose that goes between the aac valve and your intercooler pipe and your idle should drop back to normal.

Edited by gtst93

in the tutorial section is a parts thread by me

look in there, it has the aac valve parts

speak to nissan, it cant be too much

no more than $50 ?

just remembered the part no# is for ecr33, not sure if its diff for er34

Wax pellet? The AAC in the R34's is a stepper motor that regulates the air flow, positive feedback hence idle regulation.

When my one got stuck open it gave a high idle, it was the piston on the stepper motor literally coked-up with carbon and grime.

I completely stripped it down and clean it, bang perfect!!!

I think the JUN R34 had the same issue.

I've had a similar issue previously, i adjusted the injector pulse by increasing the ms with the hand controller and it went away. When the problem happens, you may notice turning on the air con makes it stop, or vise versa. weird shit.

okay.

Pulled the ACC manifold and assembly out after work today.

Found that the plunger from the coolant bit had snapped. Photos demonstrate what I mean.

I have a replacement loaner, but will get myself a new plunger and refit mine eventually.

Here are pics to show.

post-6399-1171436404.jpg

post-6399-1171436432.jpg

post-6399-1171436521.jpg

  • 12 years later...

Hi all , I know this is an old thread but does anyone know how to get that cap out on the cold start piston side .

We made a pin tool up but that cap is crazy tight . I'm reluctant to heat the casting up because of the seal that lives inside where the idle speed magnet solenoid gadget goes .

Thanks in advance , cheers from Adrian .

Hi GTSBoy , we are still struggling with these three pin hole plugs that go over the cold start spring and wax pellet piston thing . We made up a two pin tool and even extended its length for more leverage . All it did was bend the pins , these things are stupid tight .

I have an R34 NA Neo IAC assembly as well as a complete Neo turbo inlet manifold . Neither of the plugs is even looking like moving . If you still have your tool could you post a pic of it please .

Cheers from Adrian . 

Sorry mate. I handed to my bro-in-law, in his workshop, and he handed it back to me about 2 minutes later with the plugs all out. We proceeded to bathe it liberally in the most aggressive solvents we could find, then reassembled. From what I gathered, it wasn't hard to get it apart.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...