Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

I've picked up a crazy idle problem on my R34 GTT.

After a blisteringly fast run at the back track at Deca on the weekend, I seem you have picked up an idle that goes like this.....

1500-1900 rpm, consistant and precise rev between those rpm.

1 second between revs going up and revs coming down.

I have spoken to a couple of well regarded tuners about it and they have both told me the same thing...

I've checked all vacuum/boost lines and nothing that I can see is broken or come off.

AAC seems to be working properly because the thing it hunting for the right idle, hence, working.

Can anyone guess what it is, or has this happened to anyone else? How have you fixed it?

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156116-crazy-idle-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

It's the iac valve your wax pellet is stuffed I just went through the same thing with mine.

A quick test is to get a pair of multi-grips and slowly clamp the big black hose that goes between the aac valve and your intercooler pipe and your idle should drop back to normal.

Edited by gtst93

in the tutorial section is a parts thread by me

look in there, it has the aac valve parts

speak to nissan, it cant be too much

no more than $50 ?

just remembered the part no# is for ecr33, not sure if its diff for er34

Wax pellet? The AAC in the R34's is a stepper motor that regulates the air flow, positive feedback hence idle regulation.

When my one got stuck open it gave a high idle, it was the piston on the stepper motor literally coked-up with carbon and grime.

I completely stripped it down and clean it, bang perfect!!!

I think the JUN R34 had the same issue.

I've had a similar issue previously, i adjusted the injector pulse by increasing the ms with the hand controller and it went away. When the problem happens, you may notice turning on the air con makes it stop, or vise versa. weird shit.

okay.

Pulled the ACC manifold and assembly out after work today.

Found that the plunger from the coolant bit had snapped. Photos demonstrate what I mean.

I have a replacement loaner, but will get myself a new plunger and refit mine eventually.

Here are pics to show.

post-6399-1171436404.jpg

post-6399-1171436432.jpg

post-6399-1171436521.jpg

  • 12 years later...

Hi all , I know this is an old thread but does anyone know how to get that cap out on the cold start piston side .

We made a pin tool up but that cap is crazy tight . I'm reluctant to heat the casting up because of the seal that lives inside where the idle speed magnet solenoid gadget goes .

Thanks in advance , cheers from Adrian .

Hi GTSBoy , we are still struggling with these three pin hole plugs that go over the cold start spring and wax pellet piston thing . We made up a two pin tool and even extended its length for more leverage . All it did was bend the pins , these things are stupid tight .

I have an R34 NA Neo IAC assembly as well as a complete Neo turbo inlet manifold . Neither of the plugs is even looking like moving . If you still have your tool could you post a pic of it please .

Cheers from Adrian . 

Sorry mate. I handed to my bro-in-law, in his workshop, and he handed it back to me about 2 minutes later with the plugs all out. We proceeded to bathe it liberally in the most aggressive solvents we could find, then reassembled. From what I gathered, it wasn't hard to get it apart.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...