Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those who might recognise me, I've decided not to risk driving a GTS-T on my P's for 3 years. But I can't not have this car. So I thought about un-turboing it.

It'll have to be a good enough job to be registerable as a naturally-aspirated engine, so I need all the ideas and help I can get. I'm assuming simply disconnecting the turbo from the intake manifold won't be enough for the insurance companies because the turbo will still be there.

Anyone? Many many thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156404-un-turbocharging-a-gts-t-advice/
Share on other sites

It wont be registed as an N/A, the build plate says turbo, the car is legally turbo.

Therefore, thats what the car is.

You must but a N/A car, not de-turbo a gts-t.

That does not circumvent the law

well, it's not that simple.

Your exhaust manifold flows through the turbo. If you take the turbo off, you'll need to get an na manifold.

you'll need to do all the intake piping like the na car.

keep in mind the turbo has oil and water lines. they'll probably need to be removed, and the outlets bunged.

It's not an easy job.

I know that you don't want to think in retrospect, but perhaps you should have thought about it before you bought it? The reason why I brought this up, is what is your added fear now?

If you were to continue driving it (i'm not condoning it), but is there any additional problem to what you initially anticipated?

Perhaps sell it and buy an na? or keep it in the garage for 3 years?

to keep you excited and liking your car during this time, maybe while it's in the garage, you could do a build up. Or just get an older friend to drive you around in it every weekend? I'm sure he/she won't mind.

You wouldn't want to do that anyway. An N/A has a compression ratio of 10.1 or there abouts and a turbo around 8.5 i think. Without the turbo your 'un-turboed' car would be an absolute slug. Don't do it.

I say convert it to NA and drive it around. if you get pulled over the police can see its not turbo.

just find all the bits you need and install it. bung up the holes for the turbo lines and take out the intercooler piping etc etc

It can be done and if you love the car lots then it could be OK in the long run as you can start modding the rest of the car untill your ready.

You may be down on power a little when it comes to other NA skylines but you can always invest in a set of extractors for it and a air filter etc etc.

I say convert it to NA and drive it around. if you get pulled over the police can see its not turbo.

just find all the bits you need and install it. bung up the holes for the turbo lines and take out the intercooler piping etc etc

It can be done and if you love the car lots then it could be OK in the long run as you can start modding the rest of the car untill your ready.

You may be down on power a little when it comes to other NA skylines but you can always invest in a set of extractors for it and a air filter etc etc.

it will still be illegal to drive without a turbo on it as the car was built as a turbo even with the turbo taken off it will be taken on the power to weight ratio of the turbo charged engine.

my advice is park it up and get ya dad to drive it only on weekends buy a 500 buck sh**box to hack around in till you can drive the turbo

Dont know bout the legality's but a turbo motor converted to n/a will be a slug, and would probably be cheaper to remove the turbo motor intercooler etc. and replace the whole lot with a n/a motor rb30 maybe even, If you can do the work yourself even more so. And you would have an awesome project once you do put the turbo motor back in building up the rb30 to be your next motor! :mad:

Just a thought.

im with this guy.

yeah right! THe amount of money that you lose when buying and selling and buying another car, selling that, then buying a skyline again is huge. Think of all the stamp duty, money lost, rego, insurance etc.

you'll hvae to pay stamp duty 3 times!!!

Whatever money you make from 'investing' will be less than the amount lost.

surely if you got pulled over by a copper and told him its non turbo and he checks he wont give two hoots.

if you take it to court you would win anyway.. not that it would ever get that far.

i had an R31 with a RB25det in it before i got my 33, i got defected and had to go over the pits, i found out, if i converted it to an NA rb25 then it would go through without a brakes upgrade, engineers cert etc. (couldnt afford it at the time), anyways, i took the manifold off, put NA one one, plugged up all the fittings etc, got NA inlet piping etc....used turbo AFM, bla bla bla.....RAN LIKE A DREAM. smooth as, and it didn't drive too bad! believe it or not. The Turbo has a 9:1 comp ratio which is the same as an NA rb30 anyways...

cutting a long story short, ended up doin a swap of some 'silver plates of some sort' and had to undo the conversion for no apparent reason. hehe...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...