Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did tell u something constructive...you really won't be able to get much out of the mines ecu if you can't tune it to suit your car...how about you ask proper questions before you have a go at me?

Good size for what? 300hp? 500hp?

What do you already have? and what do u mean by parts needed? parts for the swap alone? or parts to support the new turbo? and then...it also depends on what turbo you want to get...which will determine what parts you need...thats why i said search first...how do you expect people to help if you aren't clear?!

Edited by limpus

Ok...in terms of support mods you seem to be on the right path...you will need some sort of programmable engine management...as for the turbo to get...look at the rb20 turbo upgrade thread...you will be able to see how others are doing and follow the same path...

To4e is way too big for any practicality in an rb20...rb25 hiflow is my choice hands down because it involves not much modification to fit, not ridiculously laggy, it and its good for at least 200rwkw with supporting mods.

If you dont have a full exhuast system get one of those first.

Raz

An apexi avcr is NOT engine management...its a boost controller...and as i mentioned...jap tuned ecus are usually useless here in australia because they are tuned for very rich air fuel ratios and higher octane fuel...if they can be retuned then it might work...but in the end it'll just be like a remapped ecu...in the end...you have 3 simple options for engine management...piggyback(safc, emanage and the like)...remap(dr drift remap) or stand alone(power fc or similar)...i'm guessing your car has a mines tuned rom in it since you're so keen on finding out about it...speak to your local tuners to see if it can be retuned...if not bin the thing...

i have searched mate. i need answers. So if you have nothing constructive to say then piss off!!

that post was probably the most informative and truthful post in this thread. And with a reply like this one quoted, I hope you get flamed to ashes.

A mines ECU IS USELESS unless you have someone to tune it. If you leave it how it is it will be exactly as it states - a mine. Your engine will go kaboom.

and AVCR is not engine management, its a boost controller.

i have searched mate. i need answers. So if you have nothing constructive to say then piss off!!

How hard?

There is some quite useful info here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095

Which is at the top of the PI page.

Otherwise search using keywords like Slide, GCG*, 2530*, 2871*, Discopotato, MTQ*, highflow, etc.

Make some effort to search and see/read what others have achieved/done, before telling someone where to get off.

The whole thing isn't about instant gratification. If you want to modify then you need to know exactly what you want out of your car, and what use you want to put it to. That will ultimately dictate what works best for you. :)

And here's a thread that was active in only the past few days about remapping:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=143835

If you want to know about stand alone replacement ECU, then try searching PFC*, Apexi, Microtech, Datalogit.

Again, it's only down to your budget and intended outcome. You could try Googling Adaptronic too.

None of this is hard, just a bit time consuming to build your own understanding.

Edited by Dale FZ1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...