Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

honestly all u need is a little bit of common sense and bout 2-3 hours of time to remove stock turbo, i done it by myself 2 weeks ago and im no mechanic

just make sure u label any bolts and nuts u take off and ur set

2-3 hours to remove a stock turbo is decent time. You probably won't come into problems removing the turbo.

The thing is, nothing EVER goes according to plan. I always plan for the worst. If you break bolts, if things don't line up etc, if you do something stupid and blow your motor. You're bound to need to buy stuff during the install that you didn't know that you needed.

Things that are planned to take 2 weeks can end up taking more.

I took my turbo out about a month ago expecting to receive the highflow the following week and install it. It's been about a month now, and my battery almost went flat twice. I had to plug a charger on.

I simply believe that if a car is your only car, firstly, you shouldn't mod it. Even if you take it to a workshop, they can run into complications, but they're generally better equipped to handle them. They have more spare parts, and also, they want to get your car out of there, so they work efficiently. Having said that, Sometimes, I have had to go home and get my car the next day because they need parts.

Trying to do something yourself is even worse. Especially if you've never done it before. If you're going to need the car to go to work on monday, I simply believe that it's not a good idea to start an install on saturday thinking that you can finish it by monday. If you need a part or break something, who's actually open on the weekend?

Worse thing is, if you get stuck, you can no longer take it to the workshop

Edited by MANWHORE
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I have a question. I'm half way through pulling mine off my Stagea, and I have no idea how to get the damn studs out on the ehaust side. I undo the nut, and it jams up against my dump pipe. I can't get the bolt, which turns out is 100% threaded, to turn at all. The nut just undoes over it. Does anyone have any secrets in how to get these bolts out of the turbo housing?

chris, (it's chris here :( ) when it's time for you to do it, i'll recommend you someone good :cheers:

I do the oil, just so that the turbo has the best chance of surviving. No old seady oil. I find doing the oil is easier. I have to jack my car up and put it on stands to do the oil (it's low). Since i've got it jacked up for the turbo, doing the oil makes no difference.

Doing the oil and fitler wiht the turbo saves me an hour of time muckign around jacking up.

do the oil change before you do the turbo swap so you arent running the turbo without oil pressure for too long. it takes time to fill up the oil filter which means it'll take longer to build up oil pressure before you can start it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...