Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

I'm going to attempt to build an exhaust for my r31.

Questions:

1.)

Is it better to get straight pipe and do crab bends like the J style intercooler pipes or go to liverpool exhaust or somewhere and buy some bends?

As far as I can see the crab might be cheaper and harder to mess up the bends, but take longer (I don't have a band saw, it'd be done with an angle grinder). Also to sand down the weld marks on the inside might make it weaker?

2.)

How do you join pipes? Last time I did it I hammered one edge out a little so it would fit over the other part of pipe. Obviously so the bigger one went into the smaller from front to back so the exhaust gasses wouldn't be slowed down too much.

Having said that is it better to just have them together without overlap?

3.)

How do you weld hangers onto the pipe? I would assume it'd be best only to weld them to flanges, otherwise I'd probably make a hole in the pipe.

4.)

What thickness/grade of pipe should I be using? Is there anything I should know about purchasing the right piping? I know I can just walk into the zorst shop but thought I'd ask.

5.)

Anyone have tips on design technique? I was going to take the old zorst out and copy it, checking each section as I went on the car. I'd purchase a normal single down/front pipe, then weld a flange to a bit of pipe, attach it take it off, copy the old etc etc etc etc. Anyone have any tips?

I think that's it. Thank you.

PS great section :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158226-building-an-exhaust/
Share on other sites

1) there are usually only about 4 bends in the exhaust, so at $20 a bend for stainless you would be better to use them instead of the section bends, considering the time it would take, as well as the limited accuracy you would have with an angle grinder. If with stainless you would want only a gap between the pieces that is smaller than the filler wire you will be using. you can do it, but the trouble with increase and neatness will definately be affected.

if you decide the crab style, then use 7 degree's of less for the angle of the cuts - any more and the matching of the end pieces becomes ugly,hard to weld, and a flow restriction

2) butt joints will be best, once again its neater, but true it would be harder to weld neatly but would look better in the long run and no worry of affecting the flow

3) most hangers are welded onto the side of the exhaust where needed, just ensure there is no burn through or holes. as well and sufficient area of weld to prevent any cracking since this is where the weight is taken from. also from what i have seen, try and triangulate the support so there is more coverage

4) up to you on what you want to pay for the grade of stainless, just remember to match the filler with the grade of steel you use.

5) it would be easier if you did it in sections, but it really depends on why you are changing it in the first place. If your happy with the design and it seems to flow well, then i would copy it.

tom,

don't even try lobster. just buy bends :happy: take your exhaust off and note what bends there are and buy the same in steel. liverpool exhaust are really cheap.

also ins't your welder a arc welder?

yea i did this with my r31, mine was very low so i ran the 3 inch under the diff, so yea with any normal 31 its up and over the diff which will be a pain in the arse with straight pipe cut and shut into bends. I made mine out straight pipe. if i was to do it again i would have bought bends. did the job well tho.

Thanks for the comments guys.

The exhaust will be mild steel. I don't really care for stainless - it's a r31 so if it gets the job done well the cheaper the better.

Ok, so the section bends are out.

What's a butt join?

r31's have crap exhaust path, have to go over the diff. I couldn't go under my car would be illegal and I'd wear it through scratching it. I don't like th idea of it flowing up and over (it's a fair looking restriction) but what can you do other than get a s13/a31/r32....

Nic, no idea. It's Jacek's. I'll just try to use it, it seemed to work last time <shrug>

Thanks for the comments guys.

The exhaust will be mild steel. I don't really care for stainless - it's a r31 so if it gets the job done well the cheaper the better.

Ok, so the section bends are out.

What's a butt join?

r31's have crap exhaust path, have to go over the diff. I couldn't go under my car would be illegal and I'd wear it through scratching it. I don't like th idea of it flowing up and over (it's a fair looking restriction) but what can you do other than get a s13/a31/r32....

Nic, no idea. It's Jacek's. I'll just try to use it, it seemed to work last time <shrug>

butt joint, there are different types, but have a look in the welding 101 thread here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=156412

the post by JAS-25T has a few PDF's one of the the TAFE one, has an outline of different butt joints.

For all my exhaust I just buy a few 90* bends and a length of straight tube.

BMWRB20_0040.jpg

Exhaust for an RB20 into a BMW

RZN160_0067.jpg

Exhaust for my Hilux

mate i did all mine at home on the floor 3"mandrell bent pice of piss if you want a look at it send me a pm or phone me or ill doo it for you exhaust that is ! ph 040902772three

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Got a question for all you tech heads out there.

Does anyone have any pics or diagram of a 1 into twin pipe setup? I've got the pipe and want to fab but unsure of how to get 1 pipe into twin pipes.. they are all the same diameters. I've sat with a bit of plastic pipe to try to get the angles but I can't seem to do it! :\

  • 1 month later...
Got a question for all you tech heads out there.

Does anyone have any pics or diagram of a 1 into twin pipe setup? I've got the pipe and want to fab but unsure of how to get 1 pipe into twin pipes.. they are all the same diameters. I've sat with a bit of plastic pipe to try to get the angles but I can't seem to do it! :\

You can buy 2-1 collectors.

Or notch to match and weld it up you self. Hard to explain, you just got to sit down and try it.

i've tried to think of ways to make the Y collectors but even after looking at pics of one like below, still a bit hard to work out the angle and cut needed to bring them together and get the single pipe to match perfect.

post-5157-1182488992_thumb.jpg

doesnt look like it would be too hard to make one up (says me who probly couldnt lol)

all you have to do is cut it from the very middle of the pipe up along the length of it, and any angle towards the side really, as long as its even on both sides if you get what i mean? thats for collectors with the same size pipe joining it eg: 3 inch pipes into 3 inch collector

  • 10 months later...

bLaQ.bOi got it spot on you do need purge that is if your using stainless, If you think you can control this with the amount of penertration that just means your not getting a full strength weld.

As for the collectors use the link above, and to get the right dia multiplie the dia by pi eg: 3" = 76.2 mm

so that 76.2 x 3.141 (3.141592654) =239.3893602 after getting this simply measure out that lenght on something to wrap around the 2 into 1 joint and cut, use a flairing tool or pressing tool to bring it to a nice round shape and bam thats it! happy fabin :bomb_ie:

  • 4 months later...

when i get some time i want to modify my exhaust by putting in a dummy muffler with a hidden bypass as close to the front of the exhaust system.

i want to do it in a dummy muffler because bypass valves are illegal in perth and i want to hide it.

can any body see a problem with this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...