Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys we can rule out intercooler pipes blowing open under presure as these were all removed and doubble checked yesterday..... Still haven't done 02 sensor or fuel reg yet, hopefully these will be done today but i am at the mercy of the mechanic who just happens to be my girly's old man and for some reason like doing paying jobs more???????? :)

money still on BOV :)

undo the ricirc pipe block it off and then cover the snout of the BOV with lots of duct tape so it will not leak. go for a drive and see if the car is still doing it :D

I had similar problems a while back, it turned out to be the idle control valve thing under the throttle body (I cant remember the name correctly) but I pulled that out and replaced it and bam! all my problems went away and fuel economy returned. This was of course after I checked just about everything else... - I think thats what 1400r and JVP-R32 are talking about.

I had similar problems a while back, it turned out to be the idle control valve thing under the throttle body (I cant remember the name correctly) but I pulled that out and replaced it and bam! all my problems went away and fuel economy returned. This was of course after I checked just about everything else... - I think thats what 1400r and JVP-R32 are talking about.

Thanks ill add it to the list!!!

ok here is an update.... It has been worked out today that one of the temperature sensors was giving a dud reading because of a caroded terminal, so we are replacing some of the damaged terminals and cleaning up some of the others. That has apparently fixed the dud idle!!! Horay for that as it has been like that for nearly a year...... But as for the power and turbo problems!!! that has been tracked down to the waste gate opening early hence the lag but the turbo sounded like it was spooling fine. Now for my next question...... Would this be a buggered actuator? or i believe there is a spring that pulls the wastegate into the closed position? is that kinda right or am i just tripping.

Thanks again for all the help guys! :D

I'VE HAD A LEAK IN MY INTERCOOLER FOR ROUGHLY 4 MONTHS NOW(WONT EVEN HANDLE 7PSI)AND IVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT!! ID LIKE TO KNOW HOW MANY PEOPLE IN HERE ACTUALLY HAVE ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS.

If you read one post up he says the stalling prob is solved, it was caused by a caroded terminal on the temp sensor...

Edited by WilYawn
Block the wastegate shut and take it for a test drive, keep an eye on the boost meter though. Dont want it to go boom!

Yeah thanks thats what we are going to do.... dont have a boost guage other than the factory one though. Should probably invest in one. But yes i dont intend on testing anything to the fullest so i will be keeping a very close eye on how far i actually push!!!! im thinking keeping hard acceleration below about 3500 4000 rpm should be enough to tell me all i need to know and hopefully keep boost at sane levels. Factory boost cut should still be in place as far as i know unless it was removed previously in japan. I aim not to test this though..... :D

I'VE HAD A LEAK IN MY INTERCOOLER FOR ROUGHLY 4 MONTHS NOW(WONT EVEN HANDLE 7PSI)AND IVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT!! ID LIKE TO KNOW HOW MANY PEOPLE IN HERE ACTUALLY HAVE ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS.

Lets hope you havn't glazed the bores by having a IC leak.

I'VE HAD A LEAK IN MY INTERCOOLER FOR ROUGHLY 4 MONTHS NOW(WONT EVEN HANDLE 7PSI)AND IVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT!! ID LIKE TO KNOW HOW MANY PEOPLE IN HERE ACTUALLY HAVE ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS.

If you've had a IC leak for 4 months then you clearly don't have any. LMAO!!! :D

when one of the cooler pipes close to the turbo outlet ( the first join after the elbow) blew completely off in an r32 i was doing an intercooler install on, the car ran fine but stalled when coming to idle. if you held it at 1100 it would run. there was a good 10/20mm gap between the 2 pipes at the closest point, but they were still facing each other. the turbo was basically "fanning" the unmetered intake.

in less extreme cases, if some boost is lost in the cooler pipes then it has already been metered and fueled for, so you are always going to be too rich for the actual air in the cylinders.

Edited by jeffworld2

Hey guys, after scanning some of the other threads some people think that cleaning the injectors could be a good idea for fixing idle issues???? Any one got any thoughts on this??? Also how much would it cost roughly to get the injectors cleaned???? Could be an idea to do them anyway cause they certainly haven't been done since the car has been in australia running on our sh$%ty fuel!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...