Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last friday I installed a Gates Racing timing belt, new idler& tensioner pulleys (and idler pulley bolt), aswel as a new Tomei adjustable exhaust cam gear (now set at 4degrees retarded).

Had the car re-tuned today to suit the new adjustment. Last dyno run made 248kw

now makes 260kw im stoked with the result! power comes on earlier, smother, and with a touch less boost (17 psi rather than 18). All my runs are on BP ultimate 98 octain fuel.

the cars basics:

Stock engine

pod filter

FMIC

AVO hi-flow turbo

big injectors

big fuel pump

adj fuel reg

microtech ecu

turbo back 80mm zaust & hiflow cat

cheers

Berin

post-7879-1172575263.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/
Share on other sites

Last friday I installed a Gates Racing timing belt, new idler& tensioner pulleys (and idler pulley bolt), aswel as a new Tomei adjustable exhaust cam gear (now set at 4degrees retarded).

Had the car re-tuned today to suit the new adjustment. Last dyno run made 248kw

now makes 260kw im stoked with the result! power comes on earlier, smother, and with a touch less boost (17 psi rather than 18). All my runs are on BP ultimate 98 octain fuel.

the cars basics:

Stock engine

pod filter

FMIC

AVO hi-flow turbo

big injectors

big fuel pump

adj fuel reg

tuneable ecu

turbo back 80mm zaust & hiflow cat

nice results mate but i think youd wanna post that in the rb25 dyno results page as this will probably get moved.

good luck with your future mods :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2939779
Share on other sites

I have to ask what appears obvious:

No hardware changes other than the adjustable gear?

What sort of tuning changes were made? fuel, spark, or fuel + spark? Were they necessary to make the cam timing work, or was there room for improvement prior to the tune?

How did you arrive at the 4deg retarded setting? ie what were you targeting. Were you chasing top end improvement, or response?

Reason I ask is that I have a high flow fitted and have been wading through the literature to find a worthwhile starting point. If I can achieve similar outcome then I will indeed be happy. :rofl:

cheers

Dale

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2943061
Share on other sites

I have to ask what appears obvious:

No hardware changes other than the adjustable gear?

What sort of tuning changes were made? fuel, spark, or fuel + spark? Were they necessary to make the cam timing work, or was there room for improvement prior to the tune?

How did you arrive at the 4deg retarded setting? ie what were you targeting. Were you chasing top end improvement, or response?

Reason I ask is that I have a high flow fitted and have been wading through the literature to find a worthwhile starting point. If I can achieve similar outcome then I will indeed be happy. :rofl:

cheers

Dale

all my mods are mentioned in the first post. engine is entirely stock & has never been pulled apart. stock bottom end, stock head & head gaskit, stock cams, stock maifolds etc etc....

to be honest....with the cam setting, i've just read through the forums and found that most people got the best results with it set -4degrees, but i was basically trying to achieve better low-mid range power, it also brought top end power which is a bonus. the changes made on the dyno were both fuel & spark(timing) to suit essentually the new exhaust cam set up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2943090
Share on other sites

Abcent: Did you get your car dynoed at the same place as before (248rwkw)? If possible could you please post up your graph with 248rwkw for comparsion?

Looking at your new graph the AT:25 and IT:45 shows a big variance in temperatures.

Does the car feel like its got more power? taken it to the drag strip before&after(or you don't do drags) to compare results?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2943827
Share on other sites

Abcent: Did you get your car dynoed at the same place as before (248rwkw)? If possible could you please post up your graph with 248rwkw for comparsion?

Looking at your new graph the AT:25 and IT:45 shows a big variance in temperatures.

Does the car feel like its got more power? taken it to the drag strip before&after(or you don't do drags) to compare results?

yes same dyno same tuner. the 248kw I got at autosalon a while back. the last time it was on the same dyno it only got 236kw....thats the red line one the graph for comparison.

red line - before blue line - after. I have no idea what the AT an IT means?? or how it relates?

As for the car, yes it definatly feels faster (has more power). Comes on boost around 500rpm earlier than before. No i havent taken it to the strip....I only got it tuned 2 days ago. but i will. My fastest prevoius time was 12.8 on street tyres (255/50/R16 M/T radials), that was with a 2.2 60ft an 113mph from memory. (only ever been to the 2 SAU drag days at hethcote park)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2945690
Share on other sites

AT and IT are Air temp and Intake temp, which are used by the dyno to increase or decrease the power number to account for atmospheric conditions. I think the point is that the only real way to accurately determine what gain was made is to do back to back runs, which you would do if the cam was dialled in on the dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2945761
Share on other sites

Hey mate your results are worth taking notice of..I have basically the same mods to my car just different Hi-Flow, i have been keen about having cam gear changes for a while, my current power on 1bar boost is 222rwkw, so it looks like this mod is worth the while..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2946002
Share on other sites

I installed mine lastnight.

The whole process only took 1 hour. this was done on an RB20 so may be different on an RB25.

the most difficult thing to do was get the left side bottom bolt of the timing belt cover! I did not have the right length extension bar.

I had the nastiest scare i have ever had working on cars.

I installed the cam gear aligned the belt and tensioned it. put the CAS support back on bolted the cas back on without the timing cover and started the car. everything fine. i double checked everything and was fine.

I checked the base timing and closed the bonnet and took the car for a drive. it felt fine so after a bit of a drive i gave it some stick in 2nd and at 6000rpm I heard a BANG and heard something drop on the road. I put the clutch in and put in in neutral and looked in the revision mirror and almont had a heart attack. There was a GAM GEAR rolling down the road!!! WTF!! the car was still idling fine. i got out and ran after the cam gear and picked it up. that's funny i thought it is the inlet cam gear that has come off (it was non adjustable factory) opened the bonnet and low and behold both gears were still there and bulted securely on.

I had made a big cock up. I left the old camgear next to the battery after installing the new one.

Anyway. lesson learned... ALLWAYS check for tools and parts before you close the bonnet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2946720
Share on other sites

Is it hard to diy?

Basically you follow the same process as if changing a timing belt - because you remove the belt to install the gear.

Suggestion 1: use a timing light to check (and note) the base timing setting before removing the CAS. Then you are able to reliably return to that setting after reinstall so your IGN tune is unaffected. Using a paint pen to mark existing position is of limited value because your base setting will change after altering the gear from zero.

Suggestion 2: make sure you have access to a puller for the harmonic balancer - you will need to remove that in order to remove the lower cam belt cover to then access your belt tensioner

Suggestion 3: do the job when the engine is cold. Much easier on the hands when working :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158353-dyno-result/#findComment-2947037
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...