Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been planning to do this for a while as I have the blank screen staring at me all the time, I thought I might be able to put it to good use.

Picked up a little 12v NTCS camera which actually has an infrared function (not expecting too much) but I might be able to get something of a useful out the back of the car (mostly below the tail gate) should also come in handy for reading the number plates of those whom choose to drive too close...

Anyway, jumped right into it at lunch time and plugged that sucker into some power and started working through the extra RCA inputs on the tuner box in the rear left-hand quarter panel, while flicking through the AV1 and AV2 options on the head unit. Absolutely no joy so far, not a thing!

Has anyone had any luck plugging an external source into these inputs? If so any tricks?

I'll try to do a DIY if I ever get it to work!

More questions to come I am sure, like: how do you get video to show while the car is moving?

Cheers

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159164-reversing-camera/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if it is an RCA wired camera, it should work fine (mostly i havent had a problem with mine in the past)

mount the camera

run the rca to the front of your car.

Hhook up the reverse wire from your headunit to the reverese source ont eh stagea (i have no clue, i still have to hook up mine) prolly for the reverse light wires depending on if they need a negative or positive signal

adn hten plug your RCA into the revers camera input

done!

and if you want it to run al the time

Plus it into the auxiliary plug not the reverse plug, and hook the power wire from the camera to a source that is only on for ignition sources.

Edited by yokotas13

Nick, Camera is NTSC and so is the factory TV/Navi unit, so there should not be any conflict there. You can get PAL cameras to match PAL monitors though so that would be no drama.

Grant, The "factory" TV tuner sits behind the the left hand trim in the cargo space, jammed in behind the 4WD computer. It has an additional set of RCA inputs (I suspect they are inputs) running into the unit. I have tried running through these but have not seen any action yet. I am about to go out and pull out some more trim panels so I can get a better look and see what I can find.

Powering the camera, yep simple as you have mentioned, the other question was related to the head unit and making it think that the car is in park and has the hand break engaged, shouldn't be too hard to sort those connections out but if anyone has them handy that would save a lot of wire probing!

Cheers

Luke

Ok, sorted out which RCA input is the correct one and tested. Got nothing so I plugged the Digital video camera in (wrong format being PAL) and got PAL image on NTSC monitor as expected. So screen/receiver works camera does not. Sending it back tomorrow, note: bloody good reason to buy locally, I can send it back!

More info and results soon I hope...

Nick, Camera is NTSC and so is the factory TV/Navi unit, so there should not be any conflict there. You can get PAL cameras to match PAL monitors though so that would be no drama.

Grant, The "factory" TV tuner sits behind the the left hand trim in the cargo space, jammed in behind the 4WD computer. It has an additional set of RCA inputs (I suspect they are inputs) running into the unit. I have tried running through these but have not seen any action yet. I am about to go out and pull out some more trim panels so I can get a better look and see what I can find.

Powering the camera, yep simple as you have mentioned, the other question was related to the head unit and making it think that the car is in park and has the hand break engaged, shouldn't be too hard to sort those connections out but if anyone has them handy that would save a lot of wire probing!

Cheers

Luke

Ohrly

Mine wasnt all fancy with factory TVs.

i haev a pioneer flip out lol

same i bought a supposed ntsc camera off ebay and it didn't work so i cussed the bloke out, yet to buy another to get to work on the xanavi screen, i have the wireless one i bought mounted near the intercooler with the reciever in the car running to a hdd recorder i bought

same i bought a supposed ntsc camera off ebay and it didn't work so i cussed the bloke out, yet to buy another to get to work on the xanavi screen, i have the wireless one i bought mounted near the intercooler with the reciever in the car running to a hdd recorder i bought

Yeah it is going back today, I already have an apology from the seller (sale wasn't through ebay) so hopefully they can send me one that works!

sorry can't help with the detail.

But I had a camera put on the tailgate, it is brilliant. I use it all the time to line up the trailer over the towbar, makes it a 1 person job.

Also you can get super close to the car behind when parking. These cameras are brilliant!

sorry can't help with the detail.

But I had a camera put on the tailgate, it is brilliant. I use it all the time to line up the trailer over the towbar, makes it a 1 person job.

Also you can get super close to the car behind when parking. These cameras are brilliant!

Hi Duncan,

Where is the camera mounted on your tailgate? That is something I still need to decide, was thinking about mounting it inside to keep it out of reach but will really depend on what sort of image/angel I can get from any given mounting point.

Cheers

Luke

Mine is under the handle, just to the left to avoid the openy bit. Its out of the weather, and still gives a good field of view

I was looking at the back of mine last week and decided on using that same spot, but on the RHS (driver's side), and angled just a little towards the kerb.

Pointless now, because I went and bought a standard single-DIN head unit to replace the factory unit - I was so sick of the shitty radio reception and skipping CD player... Maybe further down the line I'll get a head unit with a display.

New Camera has arrived, it works and has been installed.

Now I really need to know which wires to earth/bridge/power to override the screen switching off once you either release the park brake, or move out of "Park"!!!

Have had a bit of a poke around with the multi-meter on the "screen" loom but the signal could be coming from the tuner unit, or I was thinking even the dash lights??? If anyone has overcome this issue I would love to know how you did it!

Cheers

Luke

ok, got some info, see if this helps:

see pic;

DISPLAY AND NAVI

32 Reverse lamp

33 Parking brake

34 foot brake

35 inhibitor (something to do with auto ??)

25 speed meter

my guess is track down 33, which i guess is on the back of navi unit or radio, check if it is earthed when park brake on/off and cut/earth appropriately. the unit on the upper right of pic is the tv tuner in the back.

post-780-1174383123.jpg

Edited by chook

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...