Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mate actually had something similar in his 260Z.... was a LCD set up controlled in cabin... could change the plates to any combination you wanted in a second..... hence to say he had the setup imported, got away with it for quite a few years then got caught and slapped with over 8 grand in fines etc...loss of license for 3 years.... Stupid thing was after he went to court etc .... the police handed them back to him :P

My mate actually had something similar in his 260Z.... was a LCD set up controlled in cabin... could change the plates to any combination you wanted in a second..... hence to say he had the setup imported, got away with it for quite a few years then got caught and slapped with over 8 grand in fines etc...loss of license for 3 years.... Stupid thing was after he went to court etc .... the police handed them back to him :P

Lol i was reading some replies to the video that said exactly that. Huge fines if caught also the bull run stickers on a gallardo you don't really need plates to be recognised

there is also a product in the states which covers the plates with a highly reflective chemical which bounces the flash from camera and doesn't show the plates in the photo. The chemical itself is invisible to humans. Apparently things like hair spray can have same effect, but not quite as good.

Lol i was reading some replies to the video that said exactly that. Huge fines if caught also the bull run stickers on a gallardo you don't really need plates to be recognised

Lol... yeah the whole sticker thing kinda defeats the purpose!

there is also a product in the states which covers the plates with a highly reflective chemical which bounces the flash from camera and doesn't show the plates in the photo. The chemical itself is invisible to humans. Apparently things like hair spray can have same effect, but not quite as good.

lol.... I remember putting hairspray over our plates years ago when we were 17/18.... never knew if it worked or not though :P

there is also a product in the states which covers the plates with a highly reflective chemical which bounces the flash from camera and doesn't show the plates in the photo. The chemical itself is invisible to humans. Apparently things like hair spray can have same effect, but not quite as good.

you do realise, all they have to do is increase the contrast on the photos and they'd own your ass

Hair spray and all that crap doesnt work, not sure about what the OP's vid is using.

Mythbusters did a special on speed cameras in S5 S4 - Speed Cameras.

The only way the could avoid a ticket was..

Even the lambo didnt beat the camera lol

actually there is a stuff that wokrs, have been using it for years on my bikes and cars, it's a specailty thing from the US. It is only found in FEW Specialty stores. It has 3d prisim glass particles in it, you can feel the in the paint. When you spray it on, these seam to line up somehow while the paint dries and is fine, looks ok when dry, possibly a bit dull and not as reflective.

BUT when a flash hits the paint, it goes bazerk, you simply can not read the plate. I have not had a fine ever. I wish i had a pic of teh bike with the phot of teh plates.

UNFORTUNATLY, the bike is recently sold, and the car has new plates, so i need some more.

it's that translucent electric glass stuff

not bad..

yeah, it's like the rear view mirror in my soarer which is some kind of LCD. at the touch of a button it goes dark electrically. same kind of effect actually.

Another idea is to use the material in welding helmets that goes dark when a flash hits it. I tried this myself by placing a newspaper behind the window and then taking a flash picture. The material reacts fast enough that you cannot read what's behind the glass. Downsides are:

* I haven't seen these panels large enough to cover a plate

* Only works if the camera flashes (i.e. night)

There is a guy in the u.s. that has a site and makes them but he is slow at producing apparently accrding to his site. On the upside he makes them for australian plates too. obviously for those who want something cool at autosalon right guys? right? cough*

The only place i can see myself using this is on my commonwhore not paying for the lane cove tunnell. Theres my political statement

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...