Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm, went to a super sprint on the weekend. Got spanked by various Evo's & WRX's. Now it wasn't for want of trying on my behalf. I had to pedal the thing 11/10ths to get anywhere close to the opposition. They, on the other hand, didn't look to be wringing their things necks.

Which begs the question. Has the GT-R has its day as a club level car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161012-gt-rs-past-their-used-by-date/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's all about weight ratios. You are giving away a couple of hundred kgs to cars with similar power and most likely the same tyres and brakes. So you need to up the power to around 600 bhp and shed some of that GTR weight.

>_< cheers :happy:

The track days we go to, the sorted GTRs still spank the other cars....

What mods on your car, what mods on the car that were spanking you?

In terms of suspension the car is pretty sorted. It handles as well as can be expected under the circumstances.

It is probably a bit defficient in hp (300rwhp).

The spanking tends to get handed out by WRX's & Evo's (Not many GT-R's show up over here in WA). Having said that most of them have gutted interiors etc. Can't comment on hp etc because you just don't know.

It isn't by a huge amount (say 0.5 seconds over a minute) but judging by my tyre temps, the condition of my brakes & my flogged out condition at the end of a run they are doing it easy.

>_<

It is probably a bit defficient in hp (300rwhp).

Yep, that'll be it, you need another 100 bhp. For example Evo 6's weigh ~1280 kgs standard, and produce around 300 rwhp with the usual exhaust and boost up mods. So you are getting done severely (16%) on the power to weight ratio. Hence you need an additional 50 rwhp to break even in the power to weight stakes. Even with an extra 50 rwhp, they are still going to beat you on stopping power to weight and tyres size to weight ratios. So I reckon another 50 rwhp would make up for that. Hence the 100 bhp increase (to 400 rwhp).

:pirate: cheers :ninja:

Ok, well I will shoot for 450ish. That may, in part, make up for my lack of talent. May have to go on a diet also (Me & the car)

With regard to stopping power I was looking at both the AP & Alcon 4 pot fronts. They only run approx 4960 mm2 piston size on a 330ish rotor. Given the stockies are 5127 & the rotor 295mm, is this just asking for front brake locking angst?

I need to do something as I am sick to death of replacing rotors.

Ok, well I will shoot for 450ish. That may, in part, make up for my lack of talent. May have to go on a diet also (Me & the car)

With regard to stopping power I was looking at both the AP & Alcon 4 pot fronts. They only run approx 4960 mm2 piston size on a 330ish rotor. Given the stockies are 5127 & the rotor 295mm, is this just asking for front brake locking angst?

I need to do something as I am sick to death of replacing rotors.

We are now using a DBA 5000 Series rotors 336 mm (diam) x 32 mm (thick) rotor with the standard callipers. No cracking problems in 11 outings. Yep, ~450 rwhp will leave them far enough behind down the straight so that they can't make it up under brakes and on turn in. As far as weight reduction goes, 50 kgs is noticeable and 100 kgs makes a heap of difference.

Way back when we did the HICAS removal and replaced the stainless exhaust with a titanium one, we saved 45 kgs and the driver immediately noticed it. Dropped around 0.2 secs from memory.

:pirate: cheers :ninja:

We are now using a DBA 5000 Series rotors 336 mm (diam) x 32 mm (thick) rotor with the standard callipers. No cracking problems in 11 outings. Yep, ~450 rwhp will leave them far enough behind down the straight so that they can't make it up under brakes and on turn in. As far as weight reduction goes, 50 kgs is noticeable and 100 kgs makes a heap of difference.

Way back when we did the HICAS removal and replaced the stainless exhaust with a titanium one, we saved 45 kgs and the driver immediately noticed it. Dropped around 0.2 secs from memory.

:D cheers :)

As is in R32 GTR Sumitomo or Brembo calipers?

Ok, well I will shoot for 450ish. That may, in part, make up for my lack of talent.

the evos are easier to drive than the gtr , their ayc/acd systems basically mean an idiot can drive them pretty quick. i have virtually no real track experience and I feel pretty confident in them when I take them to the limit , the car just sorts itself out

on the other hand im constantly aware of the gtrs size and weight , plus the delay when attesa reacts to traction loss. you really need to position it properly in and before a corner where the evo you can just chuck it in and let the computer do the work

i still find the gtr more rewarding though when driven well at the limit though and the rb26 is a far superior package

450 hp and some track spec brakes will turn the tables easily. if you have a stock non vspec 32 i find them very under braked

Dont mean to hijack your thread But are you running things like brake cylinder stopper braided front lines etc.

bloke I know running a HSV at track days he found that upgraded pads and then brake lines (the following meeting) transformed his brake feel and helped his times. while a very different car to a GTR it is also a heavy moderatly powered car,like ours.

Myself I am looking into doing both as am still running stock (suitomo?) gtr brakes on my 32 with hicas deleted, little better brake feel gotta be good for confidence/time improvement, I know the addition of decent pads an ap racing fluid transformed my brakes (at least as much as could be expected)

Just my 2cents. Am no track day expert or anything.

Edited by noone

GTRs may be doing ok in Vic...but they are all R33 and R34s. The R32 GTR seems to be showing its age with later model cars able to keep up with them.

So i say its more condition based. It comes down to money...how well the car has been maintained and modded. Your complaining about an R32 GTR, try punting an RB20 GTSt.

EVO drivers are often cashed up and can enjoy their toys. Ditto GTR guys.

Show me a quick track car and you can generally check off 20k worth of gear on them.

a nice evo is $40-$50K ditto the sti. now if you are patient and willing to break someones balls on price then you could find a pretty damn good 32 GTR for $25K. now you have $20K to spend on it. I reckon you can get a $50K 32 GTR going just as quickly as a $50K Evo or STI.

GTRs may be doing ok in Vic...but they are all R33 and R34s. The R32 GTR seems to be showing its age with later model cars able to keep up with them.

So i say its more condition based. It comes down to money...how well the car has been maintained and modded. Your complaining about an R32 GTR, try punting an RB20 GTSt.

EVO drivers are often cashed up and can enjoy their toys. Ditto GTR guys.

Show me a quick track car and you can generally check off 20k worth of gear on them.

My R33 GTR is stock...... :sorcerer:

We are now using a DBA 5000 Series rotors 336 mm (diam) x 32 mm (thick) rotor with the standard callipers. No cracking problems in 11 outings.

Which calipers? Whats involved in getting these discs to fit with the brembo calipers? I'm running stock sized 324x30mm (i think?) DBA5000 with my R33 GTR brembos...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...