Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that GTR came 1.5seconds from the track record set by derik pingle in his Lola F1. pretty damn good to stay that close to the Lola!!! it was awsome to watch tho, he was with a small team of skylines at the gatton sprints wasnt he???

CJ

there was an outfit there with 2 or 3 lines, One of them was a 33 with a smallblock shoehorned in. The giant car was independant of these guys tho. They didnt appear at qr on the weekend either. A huge disapointment to me as I really wanted to watch that car for more than one corner a la gatton. No matter, theres always next time.

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well from my last few enquires:

Stoptech 332*32 hatted rotors + ST40 calipers + braided lines + pads = $2280US approx $2850 Aust. Delivered. Note this is ex US, I haven't got a price from the local distributor as they need to email the States.

Alcon 335*28 hatted rotor + 4 pot caliper + lines + pads+fluid + $3808+gst+freight ex PWR direct.

AP Racing CP5200 + 330x32 hatted rotors + lines & pads = $3200 + freight. EX Racebrakes (pick one)

The endless stuff (6 pot on R33 hatted 324 rotors) is listed as Y436,590 plus freight. Ex Greenline.

So they appear to be reasonably priced to me.

Oh, and Roy, I have delicate little feet. Like a ballerina.

Apparently the new distributor for Stoptech gear is now V-Sport. Tony who I spoke to was very helpfull & knowledgeable.

Also, from what I understand there is a Brembo kit for a Z32 with a 332x32 rotor & an F40 caliper. Has anyone used these?

LOL..you seemed like you were a bit disappointed at dinner with your times up until the last session. I was stoked to see you held your breath for the last session and sucked out a great PB :)

By my timer i did the 1:52.04. So they gave me 0.04sec on my quickest lap. I would have lved if they gave me 0.05sec. 1:51.999 sounds a lot faster.

They are very beautiful. Can I ask who you bought them from?

Got them thru Perth Brake Parts in Kewdale

It was a toss up between these and a set of AP Racing, personally I preferred the AP Racing Calipers / Disks, but went for the Brembos on account of percieved originality......

djr81 i finally checked our rotors and they are 343mm X 32mm fronts....backs are same dia but thinner...didnt check width sorry.

Thanks man, I sort of suspected they might have been. The 343mm size is about all you can stuff under a 17" rim. Even then it works out to be 13.5" diameter. Which leaves a nominal 1.75" on each side. I say nominal because there isn't anything like that amount of room.

actually i checked the rears again...with a measuring device other then my eyes....backs are 323 X 1"(bout 25.4mm)

I measured fronts when we just put new rotors on, and i eyed them off with the backs and they looked similiar, well 20mm smaller in diameter they actually are.

Recap Fronts= 343mm X 32mm

Backs= 323mm X 25.4mm

Alcon monoblock 4pistons front and rear.

Run SBS Dual carbons up front and Carbon Ceramics on the arse.

My apologies for the fark around with the half arsed info.

Edited by r33_racer

Wakefield Park 14/15 April 2007, Improved Production Over 2 litres, pole position, fastest lap (1.063383) and 3 wins from 3 races. Less than 2/10ths off the lap record set in 2002 ie; before control tyres.

TWB_7968resized.jpg

TWB_8606resized.jpg

Doesn't seem to me to be past it's use by date.

:D cheers :thumbsup:

PS; well done to Dave and the BSM boys, all that hard work paid off.

nice one dave! mmm he is such a good pilot. nice to see them back on top. and a new paint scheme too... congratulations.

are they still running in CT too?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...