Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok heres a hard question for you al, im not familiar with 33 2drs (ive a 4dr) or series numbers, neway i have painted the letters on my car and am wondering, on a 4dr or 2dr can u get the plastic around the letters to light up?

Can you post up a pic of the ass end of your car.

The hard task would be to get an even glow across the facia without seeing the LEDs. Not easy at all :P . Maybe if you were to put the LEDs around the outside edge, facing into the middle, not too sure :huh:

  • Replies 166
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

umm sorry guys i dnt have a picture of how i laided the leds out but ill try and explain it hear goes. the section i cut out of the back was 400mm u will see the 2 lines in the black plastic that measure 400mm from one to the other. i then bought 2 x 200mm red leds from supercheap auto( you can get them at autobarn ect to) and i thoguth it was all going to be sweet lol till i meausured the leds n found they wear bout 230mm each lol wich meant if i just put them in a straight line there would have been a big gap between the leds in the middle so what i did was take then end of one led ( the blanked of end) and cut the clear cylender tube that the led and power board thingy that all the lights are solderd onto. i cut it just infront of the last led on the blanked off end with a small hacksaw then i removed the rubber plug that seals up the other end of the other led then just put a dob of silicon on the end of the exposed board and slid it into the open end of the other led hope this is all making sence. then what i did was used locktite 406 (superglue) to fix one end of the led to the bottom half of the black plastic you cut out earlyer. the reason you mount it on the bottom of this and not the middle is becase the bottom of the plastic actually lines up with the middel of the letters. then i put sum 406 under the join in the leds and also at the other end which overhangs the black plastic by about 2-3 cm then when i went to put it bak in all i did was put the onverhanging led end in 1st then just pushed the other end in an siliconed it all up. dnt forget to drill a hole at eather end of the backing to that the wiring can come bak threw i just drilled into the fixed peice ( the peice still attached to the clear side)

i get ya. nice work. hows the spread of the light from the LED tubes(?) look? is it even or can you kinda make out bright and dark spots?

ive just started building mine. managed to cut out the back plastic in one piece using my dremel. i'll post pics up of the bits when im done. wont be soon though as im kinda slow with this kinda stuff

good work and it dnt matter how long it take the smile on your face when u turn tha tlight on for the 1st tiem at night will be worth it. and the light illuminates really well i think when you standing about 2-3m behind it after about 5m or so it starts to get a lil blury. i hav a pik on page 4 if u wanna no how it looks u can se th eleds in this pik bu tits jus tthe camera in real lif you cant see each led its to bright

  • 2 weeks later...

update on my progress guys:

i went to jaycar today and had a chat to one of the attendants there. told him what i was doing and which leds i was gonna need. he said the 30,000 mcd ones would be the best. call me gullible but i agreed. told him i needed 16 (two b/n each letter). didn't notice till i got home and counted them that he gave me 32, and only charged for 10. :D

anyhoo his advice was to run them in parallel (see pic). he also threw in a big chunky looking resistor. he rekons i only need one and this can go anywhere in the wiring (+ive side). i wanna include it in the garnish but im worried its gonna get hot. is this a problem? its quite large, about 50x10x10mm. i dont want it melting anything

post-30915-1178799557_thumb.jpg

update on my progress guys:

i went to jaycar today and had a chat to one of the attendants there. told him what i was doing and which leds i was gonna need. he said the 30,000 mcd ones would be the best. call me gullible but i agreed. told him i needed 16 (two b/n each letter). didn't notice till i got home and counted them that he gave me 32, and only charged for 10. :D

anyhoo his advice was to run them in parallel (see pic). he also threw in a big chunky looking resistor. he rekons i only need one and this can go anywhere in the wiring (+ive side). i wanna include it in the garnish but im worried its gonna get hot. is this a problem? its quite large, about 50x10x10mm. i dont want it melting anything

post-30915-1178799557_thumb.jpg

when i went to Jaycar, there was one girl there, and it was her first day... she said the normal guys gave themselves the day off... :laugh: bastards...

let me know how it works out, cause thats a simpler circuit... i did mine the other way, i tested it just before when i was near the car, but i blew a fuse cause i was f**king around... gunna do it properly when i get home...

Some of it's a little over the place for me. So here's how it goes.

I will hopefully be receiving my s1 garnish soon after battles with others on eBay etc.

Making the board...what is needed? Can i just parallel the leds with each other, (led in series with resistor) and have the parkers power through each side of the leds? (Als diagrams looked like it had diodes in it???)

how do u secure the board?

Painting...would the led shine through the paint? ppl have said to paint it black but if i put a coat of white and clear on the letters only will it shine through good, or shit? Only a thought.

How does the old one get removed??

Cheers.

dude if you have a read through this thread most of your answers will be easy to find. however if you wanna wait about a week (maybe two lol) i'll be done making mine. been taking lotsa pics and i'll be writing a how-to/diy tute thingamabob.

btw progress update: finished making the light panel and all electric prep.

to be done: mounting the leds in the garnish + painting

WATCH THIS SPACE!!!!

dude if you have a read through this thread most of your answers will be easy to find. however if you wanna wait about a week (maybe two lol) i'll be done making mine. been taking lotsa pics and i'll be writing a how-to/diy tute thingamabob.

btw progress update: finished making the light panel and all electric prep.

to be done: mounting the leds in the garnish + painting

WATCH THIS SPACE!!!!

lol, i just did mine all in one day :) after work...

slight problem though which i have to fix... but it was the only piece of work i didnt do myself :laugh:

Got a low down today, was thinking of using basti's diagram, but if an led blows it throws more voltage across the other leds, hence they will go one be one. If that resistor plays up it will cut of supply to all.

so im gonna put a resistor in front of each led.

Was gonna try set up white leds in the middle of each letter and connect to a relay for when reversing only, neone know how this could be achieved.

haha like i said...im slow. lol. so you ready to reveal your technique yet?

no, i dont show half finished work :unsure: it looks nice, but it doesnt look how its supposed to look :D

should be fixed soon, there are 2 ways i can go about fixing it, im yet to decide which way :) spose which ever way comes first... *plays the waiting game*

Got a low down today, was thinking of using basti's diagram, but if an led blows it throws more voltage across the other leds, hence they will go one be one. If that resistor plays up it will cut of supply to all.

so im gonna put a resistor in front of each led.

Was gonna try set up white leds in the middle of each letter and connect to a relay for when reversing only, neone know how this could be achieved.

for the reverse, you have to have a seperate line of LEDs, on THEIR OWN POSITIVE LINE... the reverse lights are triggered by a positive line, and use the same ground as the brake ligths...

i suppose you could use one of the neg lines on the board... it wouldn't really matter... but it needs its own separete positive line...

for the reverse, you have to have a seperate line of LEDs, on THEIR OWN POSITIVE LINE... the reverse lights are triggered by a positive line, and use the same ground as the brake ligths...

i suppose you could use one of the neg lines on the board... it wouldn't really matter... but it needs its own separete positive line...

I realize that it would have to be connected to the reverse lights but stopping the brake lights from turning on as well...i want the white lights to come on in reverse having the reds shut off till out of gear (reverse). I'm thinking the use of a relay but will have to study up as I'm not sure how they work.

Im thinking about making these for people for about $320 a piece...

your choice of colours and what they do...

anyone interested?

yeh i'd be interested, would like to see what the next make comes out like tho with the black backing paint or whatever before the final coat. cheers mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...