Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I'm about to start modding my car again and am changing my high-flow turbos for a couple of the new T28-10's.

While I'm at it I will be changing the intercooler from stock to a new Trust cooler.

I was going to go with the Trust Type 23 - 302x600x115 (3 core) however my mechanic adised I should be going

with the Trust Type 24 - 284x600x76 (2 core) citing that the larger cooler restricts airflow to the radiator too much

and that the Type 23 is good enough.

Experiences - Thoughts???

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161861-intercooler-advice/
Share on other sites

i would tend to agree. 76mm is still quite a thick core. and going to 115mm will mean practically no airflow is making it through your intercooler and air con core to the radiator. personally for anything up to 350rwkw I'd be happy with the 76. if it's more power than that you're after then the big core may be a good idea, and a new radiator wouldn't hurt either :D

  • 1 month later...

Would a clean undented fin 32 GTR intercooler be better than a 100 mm thick aftermarket core if its got fins that are dented a bit an kinda closed up doesnt leak but looks shitty an I think might be resticting flow a bit.

Anyone got dimensions of the stocky?

Might be able to get a good condition stocker cheapish thinking it will make a good stopgap till I can source a ARC or something

Been having some cooling probs so thinking the thick core might not be helpin

Edited by noone

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

My idea of intercoolers has always been to get the smallest you can get away with for your application, the bigger the intercooler gets means more volume that the turbo's have to fill up with air before that air reaches the throttle body and hence worse response from off boost to on boost

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :D

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :(

he's from NSW, can you really expect much more? :D

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

or if you're nice he might just do them for you anyway...

90mm ARE is sweet

post-1486-1179365587_thumb.jpg

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

Edited by URAS
a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :unsure:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

well they may be the same money as a Japanese cooler but I'm willing to support the Aussie team at ARE

after all it's a lump of aluminium.

note mine's a tube/fin 90mm ARE made to order through discussions with them.

service means alot to me too.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :thumbsup:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

i do because we get fed a lot of baseless shit..... a local guy in a shed struggling to make sales needs a good line.... do a bit of back ground work and you will soon find the facts behind the product, where it comes from and whether or not it is as good as the line you were spun....

as for response after a quick tidy up it was barely noticeable, actually far less than i had expected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Looking at the photos, you could easily just drop this pipe and dump into atmosphere  Just 1 or 2 quick hits for data acquisition - if have a heat shield material and/or sheet metal, maybe just use wire/metal cable ties and attach it in a way to deflect heat from melting nearby wires.  
    • 2025 PRP GTR Festival - A Massive Thank You from SAU NSW! On behalf of SAU NSW, I want to extend a huge thank you to our incredible committee for all the hard work and dedication behind the scenes. You are the engine that keeps this club running smoothly! (hopefully an RB lol😆) To all our amazing volunteers who helped make the GTR Festival Sydney such a success, thank you for giving your time, energy and sacrificing your weekend sleep-ins. Your efforts did not go unnoticed and were absolutely appreciated by everyone. We also want to give a big shoutout to the workshops, trade stalls, and the awesome VIP's we connected with over the weekend. Your support means the world to us, and we’re so proud to be part of such a passionate automotive scene. We are looking forward to collaborating with you at our future events.  SAU NSW had our marquee up for two full days at GTR Festival, packed with merchandise, a sizzling members BBQ, and a chance to chat with the committee, sign up, and check out some hot Skylines on display from our members. It was incredible seeing so many smiles and genuine conversations, that's what we're all about! SAU NSW is more than just a car club... we’re building a community where you can make friends, share stories, and talk about anything RB related or not. 📸 Please post any cool pics you took at the GTR Festival in this thread! 📸 To our current members, thank you for your ongoing loyalty, and to all our new members... welcome to the family! We’re beyond excited to have you on board! Please ensure you are involved as much as possible within the club, and make the most of our exciting upcoming events. Here’s to more future events, thrilling drives, chill meets and good feeds! Let’s keep building something special. 💪🚗💨 Matt Zoumpoulis, President SAU NSW
    • Yes, well, keep in mind that the air is intake air, which equal boost + possible oil. If there is a fine deposition of oil/scunge that then gets hot and carbonises, it could look just like that. Probably shouldn't be leaking. Might just be normal for that product. Hard to know if it is relevant.
    • Wrapped up putting the motor back in today. I have a stainless flex turbo drain pipe like you see on cummins and that funny enough PRP started selling. I generally prefer these but sadly they come with a finite amount of times they can be bent before they snap. Took well over a week for a replacement to arrive.  I was able to prime the pump but I will more then likely wait until next friday to take it on its madden voyage. I also installed the nozzles for my direct port WMI setup but plugged the nozzle holders for now. I'll tube it with Swagelok SS tubing and fittings next chance I get. No rush, i'll be breaking it for a week or two anyways. 
    • I could definitely do some logs without the VCT enabled for sure. I believe we tried it on the dyno and it still spiked but wouldn't hurt to try again and have the logs    I might be able to use some metal cable ties and hold the gate open entirely, I'd need to see about that one.   What do we think about these marks on the cap of the actuator? This is where the two parts push together where the diaphragm spring is. To me they look like air has been sleeping past?? Specifically talking about those black stains above the lower rim/lip. They can be rubbed away as if it's just an exhaust stain.  
×
×
  • Create New...