Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I'm about to start modding my car again and am changing my high-flow turbos for a couple of the new T28-10's.

While I'm at it I will be changing the intercooler from stock to a new Trust cooler.

I was going to go with the Trust Type 23 - 302x600x115 (3 core) however my mechanic adised I should be going

with the Trust Type 24 - 284x600x76 (2 core) citing that the larger cooler restricts airflow to the radiator too much

and that the Type 23 is good enough.

Experiences - Thoughts???

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161861-intercooler-advice/
Share on other sites

i would tend to agree. 76mm is still quite a thick core. and going to 115mm will mean practically no airflow is making it through your intercooler and air con core to the radiator. personally for anything up to 350rwkw I'd be happy with the 76. if it's more power than that you're after then the big core may be a good idea, and a new radiator wouldn't hurt either :D

  • 1 month later...

Would a clean undented fin 32 GTR intercooler be better than a 100 mm thick aftermarket core if its got fins that are dented a bit an kinda closed up doesnt leak but looks shitty an I think might be resticting flow a bit.

Anyone got dimensions of the stocky?

Might be able to get a good condition stocker cheapish thinking it will make a good stopgap till I can source a ARC or something

Been having some cooling probs so thinking the thick core might not be helpin

Edited by noone

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

My idea of intercoolers has always been to get the smallest you can get away with for your application, the bigger the intercooler gets means more volume that the turbo's have to fill up with air before that air reaches the throttle body and hence worse response from off boost to on boost

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :D

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :(

he's from NSW, can you really expect much more? :D

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

or if you're nice he might just do them for you anyway...

90mm ARE is sweet

post-1486-1179365587_thumb.jpg

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

Edited by URAS
a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :unsure:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

well they may be the same money as a Japanese cooler but I'm willing to support the Aussie team at ARE

after all it's a lump of aluminium.

note mine's a tube/fin 90mm ARE made to order through discussions with them.

service means alot to me too.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :thumbsup:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

i do because we get fed a lot of baseless shit..... a local guy in a shed struggling to make sales needs a good line.... do a bit of back ground work and you will soon find the facts behind the product, where it comes from and whether or not it is as good as the line you were spun....

as for response after a quick tidy up it was barely noticeable, actually far less than i had expected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...