Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I'm about to start modding my car again and am changing my high-flow turbos for a couple of the new T28-10's.

While I'm at it I will be changing the intercooler from stock to a new Trust cooler.

I was going to go with the Trust Type 23 - 302x600x115 (3 core) however my mechanic adised I should be going

with the Trust Type 24 - 284x600x76 (2 core) citing that the larger cooler restricts airflow to the radiator too much

and that the Type 23 is good enough.

Experiences - Thoughts???

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161861-intercooler-advice/
Share on other sites

i would tend to agree. 76mm is still quite a thick core. and going to 115mm will mean practically no airflow is making it through your intercooler and air con core to the radiator. personally for anything up to 350rwkw I'd be happy with the 76. if it's more power than that you're after then the big core may be a good idea, and a new radiator wouldn't hurt either :D

  • 1 month later...

Would a clean undented fin 32 GTR intercooler be better than a 100 mm thick aftermarket core if its got fins that are dented a bit an kinda closed up doesnt leak but looks shitty an I think might be resticting flow a bit.

Anyone got dimensions of the stocky?

Might be able to get a good condition stocker cheapish thinking it will make a good stopgap till I can source a ARC or something

Been having some cooling probs so thinking the thick core might not be helpin

Edited by noone

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

My idea of intercoolers has always been to get the smallest you can get away with for your application, the bigger the intercooler gets means more volume that the turbo's have to fill up with air before that air reaches the throttle body and hence worse response from off boost to on boost

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :D

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :(

he's from NSW, can you really expect much more? :D

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

or if you're nice he might just do them for you anyway...

90mm ARE is sweet

post-1486-1179365587_thumb.jpg

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

Edited by URAS
a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :unsure:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

well they may be the same money as a Japanese cooler but I'm willing to support the Aussie team at ARE

after all it's a lump of aluminium.

note mine's a tube/fin 90mm ARE made to order through discussions with them.

service means alot to me too.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :thumbsup:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

i do because we get fed a lot of baseless shit..... a local guy in a shed struggling to make sales needs a good line.... do a bit of back ground work and you will soon find the facts behind the product, where it comes from and whether or not it is as good as the line you were spun....

as for response after a quick tidy up it was barely noticeable, actually far less than i had expected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...