Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

went to a dyno tuning place today and using the apexi power fc hand controller not all the settings could be altered (for some reason certain display screens you couldn't change. we think it may be because the car is not running a stock air flow sensor it is actually running 2 and this options is not avavilable on the controller to set it up properly. it would let us change the fuel on low revs but nothing with turbo's active). so we need to get the software to hook up the laptop to it. do u guys know where you can get the appropriate software? once i get that i'll be set.

cheers

yes its been tuned by croydon by the previous owner. some of the menus u bring up should be filled with readings etc are all 0's.

Have you had your Power FC tuned by someone else in the past? It sounds like they may have locked it

the cost of buying the software and link box would be far more than the cost of geting croydon to tune it.

If you plan on using the software and link box a fair bit then the investment would be worth it.

datalogit-ani.gif

http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz

are you still located in NSW? if for any chance your in melb i will happily unlock it for you $0

Edited by URAS
link box and software cost just a lil over 400 i have got it and omg this is tha best investment i have made so much easyier to tune havr got the place where you can get itif you pm me

i posted it up just above yours www.fc-datalogit.co.nz is the manufacturer and turn around is very quick.

Edited by URAS

Workshops will sometimes lock it if you ask for warranty on their tune. Otherwise you could change the settings, blow up the engine as a result, then change the settings back and claim warranty. It is simply protection for them when they give warranty.

:P cheers :whistling:

yeah. i dunno. but if i was say a large workshop that does lots of skylines and silvias and most had the same mods. ie gtr pfc 1 bar. etc etc id probably load up the same map from the car i just tuned. and simply fine tune it.

and charge the 4hrs for "tuning" not the 1.5 hours max. so yeah tuners lock it so you cant fiddle with them and its another way to make the customer come back.

and its that last point that shits me.

yeah only thing is i don't leave near croydon... so i'll have to work something out. might have to drive up there kind of annoying but. doesn't seem to be tuned properly anyway but yet i'll be taking it there to get unlocked :D any of you guys from wollongong?

yeah. i dunno. but if i was say a large workshop that does lots of skylines and silvias and most had the same mods. ie gtr pfc 1 bar. etc etc id probably load up the same map from the car i just tuned. and simply fine tune it.

and charge the 4hrs for "tuning" not the 1.5 hours max. so yeah tuners lock it so you cant fiddle with them and its another way to make the customer come back.

and its that last point that shits me.

actually another question would be.... once locked do u need the specific software to hook it up on a laptop to unlock it or can you unlock it using the hand controller. ?????????????????????

So does anyone know how to unlock a powerfc getting mine installed tomorrow and tuned damn will be spewing if its locked can I reinitialise it maybe to reset it to stock with no lock? anyone know?

You can unlock it from the laptop software, no password is needed as far as i know, its just a lock/unlock button. You can't unlock it from the hand controller at all. If your map is showing all 0's then its locked.

there is a bug as part of the unlock with datalogit

if the injector screen is locked, when you unlock it the values are lost

that is you can't unlock them and keep the values, they get reset to defaults

i am fairly certain the AFM ramp is the same, if unlocked the previous values are lost.

i am unsure if its the FC hiding them and resetting or if its a datalogit bug

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...