Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i did loads of dodgy shit to my VN, it was my first car.

-one of the front seat mounts broke so i had a vacuum cleaner wedged behind the seat to stop me from swinging back.

-the front bar was held on by cable ties.

-i ripped the air filter out completely and put a stocking over the pipe. better performanz y0.

-the muffler was rusted so i grinded it off and didnt replace it. i also drilled a hole through the cat.

-i had a decent system in the car.. but couldnt afford a box for my sub.. so i put it in a bucket and used sikaflex to seal it.

-i removed the rear springs and cut the front ones.

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

-i removed the rear springs and cut the front ones.

there are plenty of VNs in town that are sitting on bump stops.

i've seen a xd falcon with a eb GT front bar on it. and a vh commodore with a vr front bar on it.

i have tape around the coil packs, zip ties hold my inter cooler on and my front bar. I had a rock thrown through my front windscreen and taped it up with hundred mile an hour tape. the holes in the bot lid from were the spoiler was has tope over them

there are plenty of VNs in town that are sitting on bump stops.

i've seen a xd falcon with a eb GT front bar on it. and a vh commodore with a vr front bar on it.

commodores were meant for this kind of treatment i think. i went through 2 motors and a gearbox. i was driving it around for a few months with a failed main bearing on my 2nd motor till i sold it to a wrecker for $400.

its a huge piss off though. i spent around $5000 fixing the thing.

I've painted a car with house paint once. Looked great. Preparation consisted of one of those green scourers.

The dodgiest thing done to the Skyline is no soldering, just electrical tape on any wiring I've done.

-one of the front seat mounts broke so i had a vacuum cleaner wedged behind the seat to stop me from swinging back.

This one wins hands down! Joe you have balls the size of Jupiter!!!

i did loads of dodgy shit to my VN, it was my first car.

-one of the front seat mounts broke so i had a vacuum cleaner wedged behind the seat to stop me from swinging back.

-the front bar was held on by cable ties.

-i ripped the air filter out completely and put a stocking over the pipe. better performanz y0.

-the muffler was rusted so i grinded it off and didnt replace it. i also drilled a hole through the cat.

-i had a decent system in the car.. but couldnt afford a box for my sub.. so i put it in a bucket and used sikaflex to seal it.

-i removed the rear springs and cut the front ones.

Oh man thats Gold!! :rofl:

Ive done a couple - first car was a suzuki swift - owned it for 3 years and only ever serviced it twice and it still went

- chopped the gearstick with a hacksaw to have a short shifter

- drove around with the air filter cover off - wicked induction noise yo

once had a corona wagon, only car i ever smoked in, never cleaned, kicked allot. the roof had been filled with chiprock and plaster as the metal had rusted away. chucked some sheet metal over the top an brazed the sheet on from the bottom first ofcoarse then chip-rock + plaster with housepaint finish.

got a hole in the rocker cover so distinct lack of compresion so welded on some sheet metal then proceded to weld the cover to the motor. all compression issues fixed. had a leak in the exhuast which made the most anooying whistling sound so pulled of the rear muffler, found something of some other econo box @ reckers that matched ish to the brackets and just stuck it in there. car came for free, sold for $400 to reckers. did tell him most of hte car was not metal and he still offered me that much for the shitter

dodgiest thing ever done to line

took of S2 wing and added 33 r wing with rear brake light.

never skimp on anything when it comes to the beasty, solder and even bloody heat shrinks etc. love my common whore of a 33 I DO!

i crashed a toyota coroner into a tree trying to be a rally car driver once

it bent a rod in the steering so i brought the rod into school and got the metal works teacher to bend it bak. then i put i back on the car n drove around. the car was so f**kin dangerous but i still drove it around the place :rofl:

umm.....

used newspaper and chicken wire to fix rust spots(bogged over of course)

bought $500 cars, washed them properly, tuned them and gave em some new carpet and sold them for $2000

:rofl:

amazing what people will buy

i crashed a toyota coroner into a tree trying to be a rally car driver once

it bent a rod in the steering so i brought the rod into school and got the metal works teacher to bend it bak. then i put i back on the car n drove around. the car was so f**kin dangerous but i still drove it around the place :rofl:

could you still turn right?

oh man, had a mate dry an rip heli's in that crap box an bent the rod on the left side, old shitty steel, it was on DIRT! paddick bask on the grans farm FTW!

yea most expensive fix on the car ever... $120 for a newy cuase i actualy was driving it an sterring + braking on anything im using on the street needs them 2.

though my ol 72 sl tor'y couldnt really make that claim an it was taken care of... 72 steel shiz, not bad going in a straight line, upg to disks all around to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...