Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

took apart the carbi in a crapbox that i've been using.

mate lost a circlip for a throttle linkage. i lost whatever holds the other throttle linkage

so i just got some paper clips, bent them around to replace clips :cheers:

still running fine ha

one day it'll either not accelerate or jam open ;)

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

a guy i know has a gemini and he knows when to top up the oil by hom long the oil light stays on for when he stops at an intersection. when it stays on for longer than a certain number of seconds it needs topping up.

lol thats a good one. I have dodged up so much on my daily driver. The throttle body on the carby is so worn out that it wouldn't close properly and always idled high depending on if the butter fly jammed or not. So just added an extra return spring onto it to help pull it back close properly.

I when i need new brake pads on the rear drums i just look thru a box of spares that i have and find some old ones that have good meat left on them. seems to wear the leading pad out faster so i just get a whole bunch of rear pads that i find and put them on. The leading and trailing pad seem to be the same so interchangable. saves few $$.

When i bust a CV boot cover thats no sweet. I just get some plasitc bag and wrap that around it and duct tape that sh!t on. last for longer than u would think.

Radiator is always getting holes in it. but i just dodge up that with some metal mend putty. It now seems to have more putty on it than metal lol.

The structural support for the sills under the car are a little rusted out and make it hard to lift the car there :). Had to get a RWC for the car so just bogged the rusted out area up and shapped it to look like the original chassis. then painted it with body deadner and when dry i just mixed up some nice mud and splatted that all around under the car to hide all. Didn't bother washing it for the assesors.

The rubber steering joinner on the steering shaft wouldnt pass RWC cos it had some small cracking in it, so i just rubbed grease into the crack to hide it and they didnt notice.

Reverse light switch in gear box buggered up so i wired the factory wiring to a switch in the car now so i have to flick a switch now to turn reverse lights on.

Brake calipers where shaking around all the time on the pads and rotor because the securing pins where worn. So just wrapped the pins with aluminum flashing (stuff u use on a house) and shoved it back in.

Hmm did a few other things. will add them as i remember.

lol thats a good one. I have dodged up so much on my daily driver. The throttle body on the carby is so worn out that it wouldn't close properly and always idled high depending on if the butter fly jammed or not. So just added an extra return spring onto it to help pull it back close properly.

I when i need new brake pads on the rear drums i just look thru a box of spares that i have and find some old ones that have good meat left on them. seems to wear the leading pad out faster so i just get a whole bunch of rear pads that i find and put them on. The leading and trailing pad seem to be the same so interchangable. saves few $$.

When i bust a CV boot cover thats no sweet. I just get some plasitc bag and wrap that around it and duct tape that sh!t on. last for longer than u would think.

Radiator is always getting holes in it. but i just dodge up that with some metal mend putty. It now seems to have more putty on it than metal lol.

The structural support for the sills under the car are a little rusted out and make it hard to lift the car there ;). Had to get a RWC for the car so just bogged the rusted out area up and shapped it to look like the original chassis. then painted it with body deadner and when dry i just mixed up some nice mud and splatted that all around under the car to hide all. Didn't bother washing it for the assesors.

The rubber steering joinner on the steering shaft wouldnt pass RWC cos it had some small cracking in it, so i just rubbed grease into the crack to hide it and they didnt notice.

Reverse light switch in gear box buggered up so i wired the factory wiring to a switch in the car now so i have to flick a switch now to turn reverse lights on.

Brake calipers where shaking around all the time on the pads and rotor because the securing pins where worn. So just wrapped the pins with aluminum flashing (stuff u use on a house) and shoved it back in.

Hmm did a few other things. will add them as i remember.

does this guy win dodgyness of the year award? i think so!

this thread is a classic

Got defected in my old nissan NXR for height of 70 mm. got it to 110mm by jacking it up and jamming about 20 blocks of rubber in between each spring coil and had no travel at all. too scared to drive it and was for sale anyway. sold it the next week and the lady drove it home from my house in Newcastle to VICTORIA with 80 rubber blocks jammed in the springs. couldnt stop laughing. hope she made it home ok

lol thats a good one. I have dodged up so much on my daily driver. The throttle body on the carby is so worn out that it wouldn't close properly and always idled high depending on if the butter fly jammed or not. So just added an extra return spring onto it to help pull it back close properly.

I when i need new brake pads on the rear drums i just look thru a box of spares that i have and find some old ones that have good meat left on them. seems to wear the leading pad out faster so i just get a whole bunch of rear pads that i find and put them on. The leading and trailing pad seem to be the same so interchangable. saves few $$.

When i bust a CV boot cover thats no sweet. I just get some plasitc bag and wrap that around it and duct tape that sh!t on. last for longer than u would think.

Radiator is always getting holes in it. but i just dodge up that with some metal mend putty. It now seems to have more putty on it than metal lol.

The structural support for the sills under the car are a little rusted out and make it hard to lift the car there :closedeyes:. Had to get a RWC for the car so just bogged the rusted out area up and shapped it to look like the original chassis. then painted it with body deadner and when dry i just mixed up some nice mud and splatted that all around under the car to hide all. Didn't bother washing it for the assesors.

The rubber steering joinner on the steering shaft wouldnt pass RWC cos it had some small cracking in it, so i just rubbed grease into the crack to hide it and they didnt notice.

Reverse light switch in gear box buggered up so i wired the factory wiring to a switch in the car now so i have to flick a switch now to turn reverse lights on.

Brake calipers where shaking around all the time on the pads and rotor because the securing pins where worn. So just wrapped the pins with aluminum flashing (stuff u use on a house) and shoved it back in.

Hmm did a few other things. will add them as i remember.

Thanks guys. I do try. lol.

We all know who the man is around here!!

Your a legend love it!! I thought I was dodgey with my corolla but you by far take the cake!! much respect!

tie rod ends held on by 3 thread turns for a 8 hour track day

well, the minimum requirements for fitting is 2 thread turns - and that is for pressure fittings

as longs as its lock-tited on alright....

another dodgy thing iv done, thought id do a lil bush mechanic short shifter which consisted of a hack saw, cut it nice and short then found a small shift knob,

it was too big for the shifter so i got a bolt and super glued it inside the shifter and then put the threaded end of the long bolt into the hole in the shifter, threads on the bolt were too skinny so i just filled up the shifter hole with super glue lol, its nice and STUCK in there now

god knows how im gonna get it off :P

me and my mates have done:

- power right mirror works only when a cable tie is used to adjust angle of bunch of cables going through grommet.

- driving around for 4 months without rear seats

- using bandaids to hide rust spots

- running 4 speakers from a 2 channel amp, 2 speakers eventuallly blew

- attaching side skirts and rear pods to hide accident damage and rust, then sold the car

- driving with no transmission oil, no service ever, it lasted for a year and many burnouts. Got $160 scrap metal, cost $200.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...