Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just want to know what figure the stock torque split gauge in the dash sits on when cruising at 90-110km/h in 5th gear.??

Mine is nearly on the second dash at 100km/h, i cant remember if this is normal or not, when i cruise at slower speeds say60-70 it sits on the bottom.

The torque transfer to the front wheels goes up heaps if the rear tyres are smaller diameter due to different size or wear, as the computer thinks that the different axle speeds are constant wheelspin, or you could just get one of the awd controllers, it cant be helping your fuel economy

Just want to know what figure the stock torque split gauge in the dash sits on when cruising at 90-110km/h in 5th gear.??

Mine is nearly on the second dash at 100km/h, i cant remember if this is normal or not, when i cruise at slower speeds say60-70 it sits on the bottom.

at 100km/h i on the first dash , slower speed on the bottom

Mine sits on 0 at highway cruise (in fact, any-speed cruise). You probably have a reading because the rears and fronts aren't matched sizes and the ATTESSA computer thinks you have a bit of wheelspin. Try swapping the fronts and the rears and see what the gauge shows.

Same as blind_elk here champ. When I had smaller dia tyres on the rear it was a pulsing torque reading and through the pants feeling.. not just a constant reading.

Any error codes on your attessa ecu?

James.

My rear tyres are a different brand (but same size 235/45/17) to the front tyres and are a little worn, fronts are new.

I was wondering if it has anything to do with my new motor( rb30det) combo ive just put in the car, as before when i had the stock RB20 i dont remember the gauge reading that high.

How do you get fault codes from the attessa ecu, is it located under the parcel shelf?

The tyre size issue that i had was with 235/45/17's both ends, but new ones different brand on the front. Same as you seem to have. Just swap them front to back and see if there is a change.. easy. The difference old to new and different brand was enough to make mine go nuts.

Attessa codes are read from the module in the boot. There is an indicator led on the housing that you read codes off simillar to an engine ecu.

I have attached the ets diagnostics sheet, maybe that will help.

James.

ets_diagnostics_extract.pdf

Edited by heller44
My rear tyres are a different brand (but same size 235/45/17) to the front tyres and are a little worn, fronts are new.
So the rears are smaller rolling diameter, and causing the ATTESSA ECU to think that you have wheelspin. Also, just because the tyres are "the same size" doesn't necessarily mean they have the same rolling diameter.

Swap the fronts and rears and the gauge will behave itself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...