Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Whats the best way to store these tyres (toyoR888's) at home?

They willbe my second set of tyres, obviously for track use, but to keep them in good nick, how do you guys store them at home n such?

Cover them up?Off the ground?

where and such?

Cheers,

Chris

umm, put them indoors somewhere (garage etc). that's about it... i mean it's not like they're being stored for 5 years. have a look at how they store 'em where you bought them from.

actually the best place to store 'em is at my place. I'll take good care of them for you. hehe.

I'm currently storing 8 in the garage and to be honest I didn't think twice about it. some are stacked and where there was no room the rest I just rolled in and left them where ever they ended up.

sweet,

Ive had other tyres in my garden shed, but when it rains, it floods....and as I found out, slaters and spiders love tyres!

so yeah, not going to put em in there, :laugh:

BB - your place? yeah sure no worries :P:huh:

Yes I was joking, you should put the traction compound on before you store them. ;)

(also kidding)

Just don't leave them for too long, they go very hard otherwise.

Edited by dontfeelcold

dry, dark, cool....

but even then dont keep em too long, once they are a few years old even the best tyres are crap. Ive got 4 year old yoko a032r on the car atm, might as well be falken 326s

If semi comps are stores in a cool place, out of the elements ie inside a house, how long would it be before they started to harden up? Like, are we talking months here, or years?

I know it would vary depending on exactly where they're kept, the temps etc, but just looking for a general idea.

it's a bit hard to pinpoint, but personally I wouldn't keep them more than about 18 months max, less than 12 months peferable. you will be able to tell when they are going hard, it's very apparent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...