Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time for a service on my brothers R33, what oil and sparkplugs should we use and what is the gap best set at. I was thinking of using good old Mobile 1 to replace the $2 oil the importer would have put in it. It seems to have developed a slight intermitant stutter during heavy acceleration so changing the plugs would be a good start I recon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16296-oil-and-sparkplugs-for-rb25det/
Share on other sites

This must be the 1,000,000,000,000,000th time I have posted in re to spark plugs but I can't help myself.....

OK, when I bought my car, the guy I got it from put platinums (NGK platimun).... they took almost twice as long to foul as my coppers did. At 3 or 4 times the price, it doesn't seem worth it to me.

Then I put BCPR7ES, and the car felt great agin.... but they fouled VERY quickly on my car.... only mods were boost, cooler, cat back. It only took a few 1000 k's before the misfire at 5000rpm was getting worse.

Then I went for BCPR6E. Same as the 7's... felt great, but lasted a little longer before misfire got worse. However I would say the difference was negligable.

Then I went down one more to BCPR5E. These lasted me ages..... The misfire at 5000 rpm got considerably smaller than before. They worked a treat for me. So why the hell did I go back up to a heat range of 6???? Well I got a full turbo back xorst, and a SAFC, so I thought I should go 1 cooler, but it didn't help me.... :D

Overall, I have used a lot of different plugs, and my best experience was with NGK coppers: BCPR5E (oh, gapped at 0.75mm)

DennisRB30 - yeah i only got a 1psi increase, but it spikes to 10 occasionally. 9.5psi is a nice gain from 7 huh. maybe my gauge reads in the wrong place? coz the car has heaps more power after putting on the 3" pipe. my 33 is dead even with my mates 33 which has the same mods as mine but with the addition of a dsbc running 11psi on high....

-

Sorry Dennis, that wasn't me, it was Zahos. We use NGK BCPR7ES-11 gapped at 0.9 mm in the race GTST. When it starts missing I spend $18 and buy a new set. The road car gets PFR5A-11's gapped at 1 mm. I've not had any problems with this combo and they are cheap enough, so never bothered trying anything else.

Hope that helps.

Sorry for the mix up Zahos and Sydney kid. Anyway, the only ones I could find that matched any thing I was recommended were the same as BCPR5E (forgot the actual part number) but with a Y in the part number and are gapped to 1.1 mm instead of .8 The Y stands for a grooved electrode so I thought it wouldn't hurt (probably just a gymmick though). I gapped them to .9 and put them in. I found out what a prick it is to change plugs on a RB25DET!! I think the plugs that were in there were the platimum ones, the part number started with a P and the electrode tapered to a small point unlike a usual plug. They looked to be in perfect condition but were gapped to 1.1 which was probably causing the misfire not the plug itself. I was tempted to gap them down a bit and put them back, but I put the new ones in anyway because they were there.

I will post the part number of the plugs that came out and the plugs that I got when I have a look later on this week. We haven't has a chance to drive it yet since we are having a few probs with the stereo installation. But once the dash is back on, I will post the results of the new plugs. Hopefully the hesitation will be gone.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

The road car gets PFR5A-11's gapped at 1 mm.   I've not had any problems with this combo and they are cheap enough, so never bothered trying anything else.

Gapped at 1mm??? Gee thats pretty small....

Is that just a typo? If not, why such a small gap?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...