Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there, I have an issue with the amount of lag and boost spike. I have had hi-flow turbo for rb25 installed. I have a rattle in the turbo - which I have discovered to be the waste gate flap hanging open due to a problem with the actuator. - Mercury told me that my actuator was stuffed - which it may be. I bent the actuator rod slightly to bring tension on the wastegate flap. I have noticed a slight improvement in building boost but I am only on around 7 PSI at around 3500 RPM. Which to me is pretty laggy. I have a bleed valve boost controller doo daddy and boost is set to 10 PSI. I checked that the bleed valve was not installed incorrectly - it looks fine. Besides the actuator, what other issues could their be that make the boost spool so laggy? Tune? Can't be turbo - it is practically brand new, any other ideas? Vaccume Leaks - Had smoke test done no leaks at all. HELP ME!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/
Share on other sites

They're not laggy. What highflow is it? Is it a slide highflow?

If it's the actuator, then it's stuffed. Replace it. IF the flap is constantly open a littl lebit, think about it like this, you're trying to build boost, but it's just gettign released.

Edited by MANWHORE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3028920
Share on other sites

Sliding Hi-Flow..... I will replace the actuator just trying to establish if I should get a stock one or get HKS or something else that is aftermarket - only thing is I will need a re-tune if I get aftermarket and that sux. And from the stock point of view want to make sure the thing is reliable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3029086
Share on other sites

Yeh, I had to get a de-tune because coil packs were shorting when I was running 12-13 PSI around 245 RwkW so I de-tuned then got splitfires and installed. Then this actuator crap started and I was loosing pressure through the wastegate because of this friggen actuator - so i took a hammer and jemmi bar to the friggen thing to bend the rod and that then put enough pressure on the wastegate to keep it closed - so I am not loosing pressure anymore - but still is very laggy. I think maybe whatever pressure valve or thing that is activated to open the wastegate (maybe springs or something) are stuffed and sometimes she really comes on and other times it really goes like a bag of puss.

Anyways I will buy a Stock actuator (Manhore) and see what improvement that gives me.

Next friggen question for you bloody wizz kids.... How do you get the friggen actuator off? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3029183
Share on other sites

Next friggen question for you bloody wizz kids.... How do you get the friggen actuator off? :thumbsup:

Firstly some etiquette. USE SOME MANNERS.

You might get a timely and helpful response.

Secondly use your eyes.

Remove the E-clip / C-clip / Circlip (choose the name you like best) from the wastegate arm.

Then remove the actuator shaft from the pin that it was slipped over. This may/may not have a lot of preload, but should take a little bit of effort to remove. Sounds like yours has little or no preload so it should nearly fall off.

Then get a suitable sized spanner and remove the actuator assembly from the spot where it is bolted to the compressor housing. The diaphragm assembly and actuator rod should then come away after you remove the pressure feed hose onto the diaphragm assembly.

It's not too hard, or time consuming.

Best of luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3029664
Share on other sites

Removin the actuator takes about 2 minutes if you don't have your heatshield on. If you have your heatshield, it takes about 4 minutes :happy:

Basically, you undo the 2 bolts holding it onto the turbo. They are 13 mm from memory.

Then, you undo the e clip. The way I do it, is I use a flat head screw driver, and just push it slowly. Try not to drop it, because it's small. Your turbo might not even have one.

I'm not sure why dale found preload on the shaft, on about 10 of the last turbos i've taken an actuator off, i've never needed to do anything other than unbolt it, undo the e clip, then the actuator could be lifted off with the strength of 1 finger.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3029806
Share on other sites

No need for a hks actuator. One of my friend's has a hks actuator, and it doesn't work well below 14 psi. That's fine if you want to run lots of boost, but if you're hoping to stay at 7psi until you get a tune later, no good.

I believe thats because the HKS actuators are already meant to have a base setting of 0.9 or 1 bar...so theres no way you can reduce it back to 7psi or 0.5 bar...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3030580
Share on other sites

Hey Dale,

Don't know what you are on about with this manners crap but if you have miss interpreted my post I apologise - what I was trying to say was that I appreciate the knowledge of the people on this forum and the information they can give me to assist in the solving of the problems I have with my vehicle.

Get me now?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3031045
Share on other sites

No probs. Just looked like a poor choice of words.

I have no worries helping where possible.

Honestly you won't have any probs as long as you look at what you are doing.

Re the preload; I have an adjustable rod to give preload. I removed an actuator from a RB20 unit and it did have preload.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3031096
Share on other sites

my slide highflow, on a 1800kg Stagea incl driver, has no 'noticble' lag worth mentioning

even with only 190rwkw (auto) it goes like a 1eyed trouser snake

I had a huge crack thru the manifold tho, causing it to not hold boost. replaced with a stnd manifold and all is, well, perfect

good luck with it mate, and yeah most on here do seem to be whizz know-how kids. sweeet, what a great site for friendly advice :sorcerer:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163179-turbo-lag/#findComment-3031664
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...