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Turbo Lag

23PSI

By 23PSI,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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23PSI Explorer

23PSI

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Hey there, I have an issue with the amount of lag and boost spike. I have had hi-flow turbo for rb25 installed. I have a rattle in the turbo - which I have discovered to be the waste gate flap hanging open due to a problem with the actuator. - Mercury told me that my actuator was stuffed - which it may be. I bent the actuator rod slightly to bring tension on the wastegate flap. I have noticed a slight improvement in building boost but I am only on around 7 PSI at around 3500 RPM. Which to me is pretty laggy. I have a bleed valve boost controller doo daddy and boost is set to 10 PSI. I checked that the bleed valve was not installed incorrectly - it looks fine. Besides the actuator, what other issues could their be that make the boost spool so laggy? Tune? Can't be turbo - it is practically brand new, any other ideas? Vaccume Leaks - Had smoke test done no leaks at all. HELP ME!!!

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MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

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They're not laggy. What highflow is it? Is it a slide highflow?

If it's the actuator, then it's stuffed. Replace it. IF the flap is constantly open a littl lebit, think about it like this, you're trying to build boost, but it's just gettign released.

Edited by MANWHORE
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23PSI Explorer

23PSI

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Sliding Hi-Flow..... I will replace the actuator just trying to establish if I should get a stock one or get HKS or something else that is aftermarket - only thing is I will need a re-tune if I get aftermarket and that sux. And from the stock point of view want to make sure the thing is reliable.

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23PSI Explorer

23PSI

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Yeh, I had to get a de-tune because coil packs were shorting when I was running 12-13 PSI around 245 RwkW so I de-tuned then got splitfires and installed. Then this actuator crap started and I was loosing pressure through the wastegate because of this friggen actuator - so i took a hammer and jemmi bar to the friggen thing to bend the rod and that then put enough pressure on the wastegate to keep it closed - so I am not loosing pressure anymore - but still is very laggy. I think maybe whatever pressure valve or thing that is activated to open the wastegate (maybe springs or something) are stuffed and sometimes she really comes on and other times it really goes like a bag of puss.

Anyways I will buy a Stock actuator (Manhore) and see what improvement that gives me.

Next friggen question for you bloody wizz kids.... How do you get the friggen actuator off? :D

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Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

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Next friggen question for you bloody wizz kids.... How do you get the friggen actuator off? :thumbsup:

Firstly some etiquette. USE SOME MANNERS.

You might get a timely and helpful response.

Secondly use your eyes.

Remove the E-clip / C-clip / Circlip (choose the name you like best) from the wastegate arm.

Then remove the actuator shaft from the pin that it was slipped over. This may/may not have a lot of preload, but should take a little bit of effort to remove. Sounds like yours has little or no preload so it should nearly fall off.

Then get a suitable sized spanner and remove the actuator assembly from the spot where it is bolted to the compressor housing. The diaphragm assembly and actuator rod should then come away after you remove the pressure feed hose onto the diaphragm assembly.

It's not too hard, or time consuming.

Best of luck.

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MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

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Removin the actuator takes about 2 minutes if you don't have your heatshield on. If you have your heatshield, it takes about 4 minutes :happy:

Basically, you undo the 2 bolts holding it onto the turbo. They are 13 mm from memory.

Then, you undo the e clip. The way I do it, is I use a flat head screw driver, and just push it slowly. Try not to drop it, because it's small. Your turbo might not even have one.

I'm not sure why dale found preload on the shaft, on about 10 of the last turbos i've taken an actuator off, i've never needed to do anything other than unbolt it, undo the e clip, then the actuator could be lifted off with the strength of 1 finger.

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limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
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No need for a hks actuator. One of my friend's has a hks actuator, and it doesn't work well below 14 psi. That's fine if you want to run lots of boost, but if you're hoping to stay at 7psi until you get a tune later, no good.

I believe thats because the HKS actuators are already meant to have a base setting of 0.9 or 1 bar...so theres no way you can reduce it back to 7psi or 0.5 bar...

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23PSI Explorer

23PSI

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Hey Dale,

Don't know what you are on about with this manners crap but if you have miss interpreted my post I apologise - what I was trying to say was that I appreciate the knowledge of the people on this forum and the information they can give me to assist in the solving of the problems I have with my vehicle.

Get me now?

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Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

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No probs. Just looked like a poor choice of words.

I have no worries helping where possible.

Honestly you won't have any probs as long as you look at what you are doing.

Re the preload; I have an adjustable rod to give preload. I removed an actuator from a RB20 unit and it did have preload.

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Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

my slide highflow, on a 1800kg Stagea incl driver, has no 'noticble' lag worth mentioning

even with only 190rwkw (auto) it goes like a 1eyed trouser snake

I had a huge crack thru the manifold tho, causing it to not hold boost. replaced with a stnd manifold and all is, well, perfect

good luck with it mate, and yeah most on here do seem to be whizz know-how kids. sweeet, what a great site for friendly advice :sorcerer:

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