Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have decided i want to venture on with my car and get a bit more power out of it. Im currently making 280rwhp which is the limit of my arc sidemount intercooler. I however want an intercooler that can utilize the standard return pipes on my r33 gts-t efficiently. I was looking at this particular intercooler as its not overly big shouldnt be to laggy in theory and if it really is capable of handling the power it says then i wont have trouble handling 320 or so rwhp out of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbo-1Side-Interco...8QQcmdZViewItem

Does anyone have any idea whether these intercoolers are any good as i was considering buying one and getting custom piping made to use the standard returns. Either that or does anyone know of a good alternate intercooler offering what im after?

Anyhelp would be much appreciated,

Dan

Edited by fEkuaR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163561-front-mount-intercooler/
Share on other sites

You'll be looking at around $1150 delivered from Nengun for an ARC cooler & around $1400 off some retailers (already in the country)

Also for the 33 they're kinda small: 260 x 470 x 70

http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/products/int...issan/ecr33.pdf

(I've just bought one for my 34, should be here in a few days & on it goes..the 34's are a more decent size: 600 x 260 x 70)

Edited by so_tred
Just fitted one of these in 600x300x76 single sided to a stagea, seems good, although i dont think the extra size fits in an r33, as the top pipe fouls the headlight

Excellent thanks for the feedback mate.. Could you answer a few questions for me.

Did you buy the cooler off the seller that im refering to or a different person?

Where did you get the custom piping?

What sort of power is the intercooler supporting?

How does it feel in regards to lag compared to the standard system?

Is the cooler you got a 2.5 or 3 inch inlet/outlet.

Appreciate your help,

Dan

try and buy a fmic kit from a local supplier or someone on the forums (traders) which are even better

negates some of the risk. of course if the dude or seller has lots of feedback then its cool

i just avoid ebay if possible and local dudes on the forum (business traders) etc are selling the same thing

you can get generic fmic kits for about $450 fitted now so u might want to look at that instead.

but they will involve cuitting a hole for cooler piping and some fabrication to make it fit, ie: it wont be a kit that uses return pipes

Excellent thanks for the feedback mate.. Could you answer a few questions for me.

Did you buy the cooler off the seller that im refering to or a different person?

Where did you get the custom piping?

What sort of power is the intercooler supporting?

How does it feel in regards to lag compared to the standard system?

Is the cooler you got a 2.5 or 3 inch inlet/outlet.

Appreciate your help,

Dan

I bought it off one of the traders on the forum, and i must say the deal ended up far from sweet, they gave me the wrong cooler(3in pipes instread of 2.5, the dump pipe we got at the same time didn't fit, and the service was plain rude, although i think that was just the personn who seved me. The cars not making a heap of power as it has standard turbo and jaycar DFI with highflow cat and 3in exhaust(dump pipe didnt fit) Lag feels exactly the same as standard, would have prefered 2.5in outlets, as it would have made fitment cheaper and easier, i did the piping myself, hope that helps. PS i have dealt with the ebay trader, and have found him to be great, we needed a cooler urgently, and he met us at a woolworths at 10.00 at night with a shopping trolley full of intercoolers, funny stuff

Edited by Adriano
try and buy a fmic kit from a local supplier or someone on the forums (traders) which are even better

negates some of the risk. of course if the dude or seller has lots of feedback then its cool

i just avoid ebay if possible and local dudes on the forum (business traders) etc are selling the same thing

you can get generic fmic kits for about $450 fitted now so u might want to look at that instead.

but they will involve cuitting a hole for cooler piping and some fabrication to make it fit, ie: it wont be a kit that uses return pipes

The seller has all positive feedback so im not to concerned about the risk more the suitability. I really want to stear clear of all the extra piping and having to cutt a hole, and was hoping to come up with an alternate solution. If i feel that it wouldnt be worth the hassle or risk then ill most likely go the rout your suggesting and get a generic kit.

Appreciate your feedback paul,

Dan

I bought it off one of the traders on the forum, and i must say the deal ended up far from sweet, they gave me the wrong cooler(3in pipes instread of 2.5, the dump pipe we got at the same time didn't fit, and the service was plain rude, although i think that was just the personn who seved me. The cars not making a heap of power as it has standard turbo and jaycar DFI with highflow cat and 3in exhaust(dump pipe didnt fit) Lag feels exactly the same as standard, would have prefered 2.5in outlets, as it would have made fitment cheaper and easier, i did the piping myself, hope that helps.

Great help thankyou mate you have made making a decision alot easier. Do you have any reason to believe that the extra lenth "730mm" would be an issue with an install? I might have to pull the measuring tape out and figure it out on my car. If it should be fine then ill probably order the intercooler this weekend and with any luck get it installed later in the week.

i have one of those same sided in and out coolers was bought off another member who got it off ebay seems to work fine for me so far, my 25 is in an s13 so im not sure about fitment on a 33 as far as supporting power i currently have 260RWHP with no issues. cooler is 300 x 300 x76 3 inch in and out, cant really help you much with difference from stock cooler and lag slightly different car but still runs the stock turbo and boosts hard and fine. in my opinion i like the factory looking black pipes down the one side to but thats personal preference

i have one of those same sided in and out coolers was bought off another member who got it off ebay seems to work fine for me so far, my 25 is in an s13 so im not sure about fitment on a 33 as far as supporting power i currently have 260RWHP with no issues. cooler is 300 x 300 x76 3 inch in and out, cant really help you much with difference from stock cooler and lag slightly different car but still runs the stock turbo and boosts hard and fine. in my opinion i like the factory looking black pipes down the one side to but thats personal preference

Thats not to bad mate sounds like a nice set up you have there. Im hoping that the intercooler can support atleast 330rwhp because i know im not going to take it any further then that. I agree with you i do like the standard look of the engine bay piping. Doesnt put intercooler pipes in the way of things ect. Thanks for your input.

Ask the e-bay sell if the end tank has a splitter to isolate the in and out pipe; thus forcing the air to travel through the core.

Very good point. I was thinking the same thing myself. I will get him to clarify this before going any further.

Thanks,

Dan

the blitz LM fmic's are great i have one on my 32, i got it because of the high quality and because it returns to use the standard pipes

i got it from Zac@ slidewize imports trader on this forum was pretty cheap 1100

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...