Jump to content
SAU Community

Supercheap Autech Stagea

CeJay

By CeJay,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

ian Experienced

ian

Posted
Posted

The odd thing about it is the rust - not something you would expect on a 1998 japanese car that had been even reasonably looked after. Possible kept outdoors by the sea? Who know. It's also a very low price - sign of a really good bargin, or something to stay away from - hard to tell...

260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted
Spotted this, looks rough, but damn cheap! http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...hp?StockID=4271

My 2cents, I got one of these same color etc., looks like it may have been submerged but for the price could be worth parting out? Ifnya keen.

cheers :)

Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted

Its been hanging around on J-Spec for a while but not a this price. I just got home and had the email from Prestige in my inbox. The interior looks great as does most of the exterior. Its not that uncommon to find rust on suspension towers of imports (my last 2 180's have had this problem) but not usually that bad. If it was caused by the elements or something I would expect to see rust on other areas of the car. Maybe some fluid was spilt (like brake fluid, I know I have sat bottles of brake fluid on suspension towers before, not a good idea!!) and has corroded the paint causing it to rust. But for $16, 000 its well worth spending some money on as it still came in as a 3.4 grade so the rest of the car must be pretty good. Shit even if its not once it gets here you could part it out for that price. I just wish I had that money. Anyone want to by my RS4???? No seriously :) And i'll buy it!! Its not going to last long though.

Appealing Proficient

Appealing

Posted
Posted

Hmmm don't think I'd be shelling out anything. It's rusty, and if it's rusty in one place it wont be long before it'll appear in others. Probably wouldn't get through comliance, (shouldn't anyway). Looks like it's had a low maintenance life. My Falcon with 330,000 looks cleaner under the bonnet than this thing. Even for that price, a high performance motor with 140,000 (genuine??) km's, would need rebuilding. Looks like a very expensive restoration job to me. For just the cost of the engine rebuild alone (+ the cost of this) you can find a nice one.

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted

The rust in the strut towers is not unusual

Due to poor building in the factory

If you look closely the seam sealant does not cover the join/overlap line in the layers of metal on the tower

So over time water/salt gets in and the rust grows

I just repainted my series 2 engine bay and found very minor rust starting in the same spot right along the seam line. You could see the seam sealant was not applied correctly allowing water/moisture to get in.

It would be worth everyone checking their car for the same signs. Also check all the seam lines in the engine bay as I had some minor rust spots between the tower and firewall aswell.

It would be almost impossible to stop/repair that rust now in that 260RS. You would have to replace the strut towers. So I dealt any compliance shop would let that car past inspection.

Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted

Yeah you can see in the first pic of the rust, a crack comes out from the seam to one of the larger spots of rust. Don't know about the random spots around it though as these are no where near the seams. The other tower doesn't look to bad at all but would like a closer look with the tower brace off! You would expect to spend money on the car when it got here. Probably a re spray (depending on what the rest of the body is like) and there would be some mechanical work to do but it does look dead stock, but the Japanese aren't exactly known for the regular service intervals :dry: There is another one there for a little over $20G too. That was the one I said had been around for a while, got it confused with this one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...