Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is called a direct replacement. But it's not really. It is not like the tomei one. The tomei one is literally everything you need and more is supplied.

fuel tank gasket, bracket, pump, fuel pump sock, etc etc. EVERYTHING.

The walbro needs mods to wiring to fit, needs to be mounted, no nothing is supplied etc.

also, the walbro flow rate is not as much as it says - their rating is not the same way of rating it as other pumps.

The tomei flows HEAPS. like crazy amounts. I can't remember when i converted it, but it was somethign like 270 lph.

A walbro is normally about $150.

One of our fellow guys who's in the same situation as us - installed turbo, changing pump, getting tune in a bit, has just got a tomei pump. For $340, it's pricey, but it's a massive pump, it's brand new, and it fits straight in.

Cheers

Edited by MANWHORE
you on msn matey? My msn keeps signing in and out - mum took my computer, and i've got hers here. It's a pos. Also, it's the old msn, so if you're in appear offline mode, I can't reply. grrr, stupid pos comptuer

yeah im on now

if u get the r33 gtst kit for the walbro it comes with the pump, the rubber mount to use in the stock cradle, a new hose for the top of the pump and 2 new hose clamps and the sock on the bottom of the pump too

only mod needed to do is cut the old positive and negative wires and join the new ones with either crimps or solder/heatshrink

but as stated, if going for higer power go for a tomei as they flow much more

the kit was about 190 delivered from ebay, gss341 i think the part number was

tek, you didn't mention that the tank seal normally expands when you take it off, and it miht not go back on properply.

The good thing about the tomei pumps is it comes with a new one of those.

I can't remember who, i think it was either bass junky or abobob, did a test on the walbro, and it ran dangerously low on flow - they aimed the return line into a bucket.

I have experienced the same with the walbro. I have had 2 in my car and both were the same. Last time i had the car on the dyno i was running a flow / pressure test on the return line and found the flow went down to .2 litres per minute back to the tank on full boost.

These pumps are not very good at holding pressure they can do it for a short while but lose there flow.

I recently had to turn the boost down to 9psi because the pump started failing. got myself a 044 last night to chuck in.

Apparently these pumps are more of a non high pressure pump - they can flow high HP on non efi systems that dont require alot of pressure.

So for me walbro will make a nice pre pump for the 044 :(

tek, you didn't mention that the tank seal normally expands when you take it off, and it miht not go back on properply.

The good thing about the tomei pumps is it comes with a new one of those.

I can't remember who, i think it was either bass junky or abobob, did a test on the walbro, and it ran dangerously low on flow - they aimed the return line into a bucket.

Tomei pump for me as already stated - $340 delivered from Greenline.

Didn't want the Walbro as too many experienced people have had issues with them.

Bosche was looking OK but for $230ish, i'd rather pay the extra $110 and get i higher powered, direct fit replacement.

Considering it's made to fit with rubber seals on the bracket, it should run silent to.

This from nengun site : 248 L/h (Standard 136 L\h)

That's nearly double !

Installed a Walbro the other day, not difficult at all when compared with the mucking around required to install a Bosch pump.

With regards to the pumps having problems, any good workshop should tell you the stock wiring won't really do for this pump. I gave mine a good ground and it works fine, though it's not being pushed with just over 200rwkW.

Although to be honest, the only reason i didn't get a Tomei/Nismo pump is i couldn't wait a few weeks for them to arrive (stock pump failing)..

Edited by govich
I can't remember who, i think it was either bass junky or abobob, did a test on the walbro, and it ran dangerously low on flow - they aimed the return line into a bucket.

I can't really comment on walbro vs tomei, as I'm not a skyline specialist but with the walbro pumps as was already stated you can get a kit for it.

There are 2 types of walbro pumps, the GSS341 and the GSS341HP - High Pressure. The standard pumps do not handle high pressure very well, rather than explain, here's a graph that shows the difference:

d_885.gif

The walbros are extensively used in the USA with high power Supra's where they run multiples for higher HP applications without any issue. Personally I like the idea of a high pressure 255lph pump with fitting kit for a cheap price, I just finished doing a group buy on the supraforums for $165 for a direct fit kit delivered, you can't really beat the price compared to other pumps.

walbro pumps are rated at 255 L/hour, but in tests, at the voltages our pumps run (not at like 16-17 volts) and at the pressures we run, flow is no where around that.

Govic, for the stock turbo, pretty much any pump will do. We're going for more power.

Jase, looks like i'll be going for the tomei too.

Food for thought for you guys - the nismo and tomei pumps are both top notch products. However, which one is better, flows more, cheaper etc :) Now that's a fun one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...