Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did skylines ever come out wit cruise control and if so wat model?

Mate,

No, never... cruise control is more for a luxury vehicle... a family car etc... sports cars don't normally come with this feature...but it can be installed... it would cost around $1,600 or so...

Why - you thinking of getting it installed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164450-cruise-control/#findComment-3048665
Share on other sites

my currant POS has it and i tried it for the first time ever last night driving the missus into some country town to see her shit kicking family... didnt like it, wasnt in control of the car and i dont like that feeling. Although my next car will have it also i heard it sucks a lot of pertol so i might steer clear.

Hear in the big city i dont drive at one speed long enough to activate it anyways... so meh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164450-cruise-control/#findComment-3048918
Share on other sites

i heard it sucks a lot of pertol so i might steer clear.

i found on the highway it used less fuel. if i'm talking and not paying enough attention i might drop down to about 95, then gas it a bit to get back up to speed, but with the cruise on it will just sit pretty much on the 1 speed so it isn't using the extra fuel to keep speeding up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164450-cruise-control/#findComment-3048963
Share on other sites

its actually the opposite ctjet cruise control is a fuel saver.

i have it on my falcon to drive to work as its an hour away and i love it, just kick back and away ya go, no chance of

getting done by the boys in blue as well, have to be careful in the rain though nearly came unstuck using it when i hit a

large puddle.

would never get it on my liner though would take the fun out of driving it.

----------- remember kids smoke tyres not drugs ------------

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164450-cruise-control/#findComment-3048955
Share on other sites

In the city or congested traffic cruise is dangerous & should never be used but on the hwy &/or long trips it is brilliant.

I worked for a traffic survey company several yrs ago & one particular job had me drive 15,000km's over a period of 5wks on my own averaging 8-1200km's per day & due to the nature of the data-collection the entire trip was done on cruise control. You still have to have your shit together & be aware etc but it truly is amazing how much more relaxed you can be at the end of long trips without having to put the physical effort into your right foot & the concentration involved in controlling speed & watching for coppers etc.

As for being dangerous, if that is the case the fault & blame lies with the DRIVER, not the device. If you don't have the skill & common sense to operate a vehicle safely with a cruise control, you probably have no right to be driving anything in the first place. Same goes for Automatic-only licences, but that's another argument for another time........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164450-cruise-control/#findComment-3049199
Share on other sites

I have it in my skyline, Got it installed 3 days after I got the car......Makes it so much easier to drive the long trips thats for sure.........got to make sure you get an electornic one, tha vaccum ones a shit!!!......the theory is that with the cruise activated you not doing as much when driving such as looking at the speedo all the time to check your speed cos with the cruise you know its what you set it at hence no looking up and down every few seconds.....

As a truck driver I know that it makes it a hell of alot easier to do the long trips!!!

The one I got on my Skyline is a Command unit and was $700 installed, and has the buttons on the steering wheel....very neat and works very well with no surging and is much better on fuel IMO...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164450-cruise-control/#findComment-3052423
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...