Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at getting a 2nd set of rims for track use, Iv got an R34 gtt and was wondering if 16” rims for the track is a silly idea, I am thinking about 16” mainly for the cost of tires as id like to keep getting good rubber and the smaller the rim the cheaper.

The R34 came with 17” stock but i am wondering if there is any benefit in getting the 17” over the 16”

Looking for opinions and advice

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164667-track-rims/
Share on other sites

Im looking at getting a 2nd set of rims for track use, Iv got an R34 gtt and was wondering if 16” rims for the track is a silly idea, I am thinking about 16” mainly for the cost of tires as id like to keep getting good rubber and the smaller the rim the cheaper.

The R34 came with 17” stock but i am wondering if there is any benefit in getting the 17” over the 16”

Umm - i think the R32 Vspec's went to 17s to fit over the 324mm rotors, 16's over your 310mm's might be tight so make sure you check the clearance before you outlay the cash. I'm guessing you'll have a better range of tyres at wider sizes in 17s. 16 are pretty old skool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164667-track-rims/#findComment-3051092
Share on other sites

I managed to fit stock 32gtst rims over r34 calipers but i had to remove some alloy from the caliper to do it. There was bugger all clearance to anything when they were fitted up.

Ideally, get some cheap second hand jap 17's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164667-track-rims/#findComment-3051727
Share on other sites

Another downside of smaller rims is your gonna have to use a higher profile tyre which will mean more sidewall flex which inturn decreases handling....

R-Comp tyres inevitably have reinforced sidewalls, so the difference isn't as marked as with street rubber. And, unlike with street tyres, its not as easy to say if the higher unsprung weight and rotational inertia from a bigger rim offsets the extra sidewall flex in terms of pace.

Personally, I'd stick with 17". If you're going to track more often you'll want to do a brake upgrade, and a reasonable upgrade is getting used Brembos off a GT-R or Z33 / V35. They tend to get sold for a reasonable price, bolt on with a minimum amount of fuss, and are from a reputable manufacturer with OEM reliability. You need 17" rims to clear those brakes.

As for tyre choice, there are quite a few racing series' that use 16" and 17" as the control sizes. I'm not sure if 17" does have a greater range of tyre types than 16", but I am sure that availability in either size will not be an issue. Either diameter will give you plenty of opportunity to go to a State Championship round and pick up used tyres off the racers, if you're on a budget.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164667-track-rims/#findComment-3061623
Share on other sites

Well rather than speculating have a look at the price list to Toyo's.

With regard to brakes the Brembos fitted to Nissans are generally regarded as being excellent. Like alot of things that people venerate they are over priced & over hyped. There isn't too much wrong with the GT-T brakes. Get some pads, fluids & pay some attention to the cooling. They will be fine for the most part. Whne you reach the point where they are holding you back you will want something better than the povvo pack Brembo fitted to the GT-R's.

post-5134-1177027456.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164667-track-rims/#findComment-3062319
Share on other sites

I managed to fit stock 32gtst rims over r34 calipers but i had to remove some alloy from the caliper to do it. There was bugger all clearance to anything when they were fitted up.

Ideally, get some cheap second hand jap 17's.

Did you file the calliper down?Damn. 17's ftw!!only downside is extra cost.but i think the added performance certainly outweighs that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164667-track-rims/#findComment-3065447
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...