Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All the lines except the brakes you can use compression fittings, best bet be a V8 speed shop. You can order from warehouse but they cry about it because you arnt going to a shop, then if shops find out they cry to wholesaler. VPW are decent priced for speed flow. Make sure you dont get ripped at a speed shop, in Adelaide if they dont know you it will cost you fair bit more then if they do, or you know prices from VPW etc before you go in.

i was hoping to find a warehouse type place to get a roll of the stuff

and a heap of fittings, not real keen on mass dollars for pirtek etc to

make them.

As cubes said... do you have the required tools and what not?

As you dont wanna crush the teflon inside the lines

All the lines except the brakes you can use compression fittings, best bet be a V8 speed shop. You can order from warehouse but they cry about it because you arnt going to a shop, then if shops find out they cry to wholesaler. VPW are decent priced for speed flow. Make sure you dont get ripped at a speed shop, in Adelaide if they dont know you it will cost you fair bit more then if they do, or you know prices from VPW etc before you go in.

100% correct. Try and get a mechanic mate to order the stuff from wholesaler like VPW and your set.

I would avoid http://www.afterdarkspares.com/ unless your looking to line up cam cover breathers, washer bottle lines :3some:

Cheers

M

As cubes said... do you have the required tools and what not?

As you dont wanna crush the teflon inside the lines

Compression lines only require some soft spanners, as steel on alloy is a no no.

Or one of those kits for cutting through the braided hose, though the tried and tested electrical tape works for 99% of jobs.

we made up all our teflon lines ourselves with just the olive and compression fitting....works perfectly. But enzed are exxy as.

Best way ive found to cut the line is with a 1mm cut off wheel on your grinder...if you want you can tape up the point your cutting, otherwise just cut without and still no drama. The blade is so thin it cuts it nice and clean with no major spurring or mess :3some:

Turbo oil feed. Fine with compression fitting? :S

Almost worth spending the $70 from Pirtek.

speed flow teflon lines rated max pressure of 1500 psi, lucky to see 100 in oil pressure applications on your motor.

I have made 100s of thise conections, best way is with the 1mm cutting disc as stated above with the line wrapped with masking tape. Now i even use a drop saw and works well.

You must use steel spanners to assemble the fittings, the alloy ones are only for taking the fittings on and off once there in service.

Edited by GTR1993
Turbo oil feed. Fine with compression fitting? :S

Almost worth spending the $70 from Pirtek.

Goto Pirtek to supply and make your turbo lines, and they'll use normal compression fittings, same as oil cooler / dry sump setups. I would be more fearful of my -10 cooler hose falling off then a -6 / -8 turbo oil supply :3some:

One off stuff, id go to Pirtek / Enzed, but if you use it a lot.. it all adds up

http://www.afterdarkspares.com/ this guy is a mate of mine his prices are the cheepest i have seen

.... agreed.. the prices ARE the lowest i have seen for AN fittings....

....

..

They dont look like Speedflows, Earls, AeroQuips :spank:

- M

  • 6 months later...

Thread revival FTW!

I'm located in Melbourne and am thinking about doing up catchcan setup wih braided lines and AN fittings. Does anyone have an idea of (roughly) what the lines and fittings might cost? If its going to be crazy prices i'll just use the tubing supplied with some of the kits.

Any ideas appreciated.

if ur doing a reasonable/big order, then www.summitracing.com is the best place to go. i've brought over 2 boxes full so far, and just putting together another order :)

Thread revival FTW!

I'm located in Melbourne and am thinking about doing up catchcan setup wih braided lines and AN fittings. Does anyone have an idea of (roughly) what the lines and fittings might cost? If its going to be crazy prices i'll just use the tubing supplied with some of the kits.

Sure, let your mouse to the walking scampering

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?Cat...p;PrdGrpID=3749

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+400041

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...