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If it is activated by a static switch: great!

If it is activated by a gear change, set to time intervals: shit.

My idea of a boost scramble is to increase boost when required.

ie: So if you have a torquey motor, making decent power and use it on the track, then you may want to only have low boost coming out of a corner, to prevent/minimize oversteer, then once on the straight you'll press and hold a button (located on the s/wheel), allowing the turbo to deliver you desired high boost setting.

If you are making less than 250rwkw, it will not be of much benefit.

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Scramble boost is just added wank to make EBC's look more feature filled. All it does is bleeds off extra air resulting in more boost across the rev range (probably not safe either as you car would not be tuned for the additional boost and could cause the engine to run a little lean). However if you mount the button to your steering wheel and add blue interior neons you have far better chance of being in the next fast and the furious.

A useful function to look for in an EBC is RPM and gear based boost control. It basically just keeps the boost where you want in whatever gear use choose.

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Some evc/ebc's allow you to set the scramble to whatever you want. You can take it out, or you can have it set. You can set it for eg an extra 4 psi for 10 seconds. What it means is that if your hitting the throttle hard, your motor will get an extra 4 psi of boost for 10 seconds.

As the above posts state, you have to be sure your car can take the extra. It could run lean, over boost etc

It's not a wank factor, but you'll not really see the extra power to often, it gets 'lost' in your normal boost power, 10 or 20 seconds is not a big time, so by the time you get it happening, your normal boost settings are only a few heartbeats away. One place that the scramble boost is a bitch is on wet days, the last thing you want is more power, and if you bag up in the wet, the scramble boost will cut in and make it worse.

Well thats my bent on it.

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if something is going to fail its going to be when you push that bit more harder or try and squeeze in that extra psi or two.

why not just get your car setup and tuned on the highest safest setting properly and run that all the time regardless.

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if something is going to fail its going to be when you push that bit more harder or try and squeeze in that extra psi or two.

why not just get your car setup and tuned on the highest safest setting properly and run that all the time regardless.

My thoughts exactly.

Which is why i think scramble is a wank :P Plus, how the hell am i supposed to reach under my dash to hit the button when i'm busy chopping ricers off the lights and need one hand to steer and one hand to shift?

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With scramble set up on an ebc sure it has some performance related limitations, but you can live with them. What Al and Bam r33 were talking about is - to me - a high/low boost button, not scramble, if your going to hit a switch and hold a boost setting, it is a high/low booost button. Scramble is a momentary thing, it is not meant to be held for ever. I do agree though that [as I said before] it has limitations, and I also agree that it can affect motor longevity, especially if the motor will not take the scramble boost setting and it all goes boom or clunk.

I've got it, I've set it up to work, AND I don't know if it works [my evc gauge tells me it does], I can't feel any initial extra power, you won't see it on a dyno, and the normal boost settings and the normal turbo boost just takes over anyway. On the road you won't see or feel a difference.

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As does my dsbc, it has an extra duty amount for a set duration when the button is pushed which was my point. I run as much boost as the car has been tuned to run. Running lower boost and pushing to button to get more boost for a few seconds seems kind of pointless. If i want less boost i use less throttle.

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Unlike some I do not consider this function wanky, ricey, or any other name people would like to call it.

Wether the push button method is referred to as "scramble boost" or a "high/low boost switch" is irrelevant; I remember seeing a Jap DVD and while reviewing a race car, they referred to this button as "scrambled boost".

Consider having a 300+rwkw, 2WD car, making a shit load of torque and power at lowish rpm, then using this car as a "club day circuit car". Running 20psi exiting a corner is going to be a recipe for wheel spin and eventually it is going to catch you out, resulting in a very expensive repair bill. So it makes sense to have "low" boost set at 14psi to limit power while exiting a corner, then once on a straight, press and hold a button to get full power (20psi).

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Unlike some I do not consider this function wanky, ricey, or any other name people would like to call it.

Wether the push button method is referred to as "scramble boost" or a "high/low boost switch" is irrelevant; I remember seeing a Jap DVD and while reviewing a race car, they referred to this button as "scrambled boost".

Consider having a 300+rwkw, 2WD car, making a shit load of torque and power at lowish rpm, then using this car as a "club day circuit car". Running 20psi exiting a corner is going to be a recipe for wheel spin and eventually it is going to catch you out, resulting in a very expensive repair bill. So it makes sense to have "low" boost set at 14psi to limit power while exiting a corner, then once on a straight, press and hold a button to get full power (20psi).

Wow... that's a really unlikely scenario.

Again why not use your foot as mentioned earlier to control the power output like the rest of the motor sport world.

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Without wanting to sound harsh. Try driving a car off the line at the drag strip with the sort of torque that easily turns wheels through 1st and 2nd gear.

Then run off and try to hike thorugh a corner where mid corner you are having to back off to control wheelspin. Dynamically the car changes based on the inertia, so whether you are on the loud pedal, lifting off etc. If you have a road car like most of us lifting off mid corner is not as preferable as holding the same throttle position or simply getting on it and as you see corner exit throwing the extra torque/hp at the rear wheels

So if you dont think you need it then easy, dont bother. But i for one can easily see why i want to hook back up my AVC-R

Hell, i on occasion used it to limit boost. So off the line at a motorkhana day at Oran Park i was setting the scramble to reduce boost to 11psi for 4 seconds then it would go back to its default 15psi

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i know indy cars arent turbo, but they use a similar system dont they?? mostly for passing laped cars.

Indy cars are turbo - F1 cars aren't.

the indy cars have a set amount of extra boost per race (can't remember how much but about 20 seconds or so) that they can use for overtaking.

cheers

Mike

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High/low boost and scramble boost are different beasts altogether.

Some ebc's have several boost settings mine only has two. I use a low low boost [say 0.5 kg/cm2] on wet days in an attempt to lessen the impact of the turbo's power. I use the high boost setting [1.2 kg/cm2] exclusively on normal/dry days when traction is not an issue. So I am on a high boost setting for nearly all my driving.

Scramble boost is preset by you into the ebc's programmable memory. You have the ability to set it up to meet your individual needs. You can dial in the time and extra boost you want, usually say 10 seconds and say 0.5 kg/cm2. After this you don't touch it at all. The big difference is a scramble boost only lasts for a finite time commonly between 0-30 seconds, you cannot hold it. A high/low boost button changes and holds that boost until you change it again, you can hold it for as long as you want, minutes, hours, days.

Well thats my understanding of it.

And Roy, I like the idea of using it to reduce boost for certain instances, I'd never thought laterally enough to think that, good tip.

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i know indy cars arent turbo, but they use a similar system dont they?? mostly for passing laped cars.

Also indy cars can change their fuel mixture. They can back off to conserve fuel and enrich to gain more power. It depends on their game strategy and their pit stop timing along with what they intend to achieve by going full fuel ie extending their lead or catching up to another car by going full fuel=full power and decreasing lap times etc.

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wow didnt know that they were turbo... learn something every day.

Off topic, but:

I actually just did some research on indy cars:

Indy cars are ethanol fuel injected 3.5 litre V8's, no turbo. I'm not sure, but think the motors are all Honda's, a controlled motor.

Champ cars are methanol fuel injected turbo 2.65 litre V8's. Once again not too sure but I gather the motors are all Chev's for this year.

Remember that the US racing scene split a couple of years ago.

Well thats what my web browsing found anyway.

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