Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks tuff.

for 22 k i'd expect the boot have no holes. the rb20det is cheaper than the sr20det to buy. Be suprised if it goes for 22 k though.

does give me some sort of hope in the future.

done know whether choping the front bar on mine will work, looks tuff with the two tone.

anyone know results for this car.

nice find.

No Christian not RWD Turbo but RWD bike will be buying a Triumph Daytona 955i very soon.

In case anyone is interested...this is the car that me and my friends built over a 3 year period. Yes I agree it is over priced but you have to start somewhere and if you don't ask you will not receive....a full custom 32 with rb26 for 23k ??? must be a real nice car. my old 32 sold for 20k even with holes in the boot :P

i'd love to know how much it does sell for in the end.

I had a friend in queensland who sold his rb25det S13 silvia, with all the fruit, motec, t04e hiflow, suspension, blah, blah, had 254rwkw on 18psi. and he sold it for $15,500.

it was a pretty mint sil aswell.

and that was about 6 months ago, so i'd say its hard to judge price on cars, especially conversions. Some people dont understand the cost involved, and some do and they pay that extra for the hard work done, just for having something a bit unique.

I think at the end of the day, price is determined by how urgent the owner wants to sell it. As there are various buyers out there.

just a waiting game

1991 Nissan 180SX HIGHLY MODIFIED, 5 speed, 111,000 kms, Brown, $19,000 plus tyres and ORC's

Price $19,000

It even had a 2.1L stroker kit.

1991 Nissan 180SX 2L Turbo

111,000 kms

Dark brown

5 speed

TS GTR Racing tuned engine

APEXi AX53B60 turbo

TOMEI camshafts

TRUST intercooler

JIC height adjustable suspension

TRE aero bodykit

Various gauges

17" mag wheels

Bonnet pins

Racing pedals

Aftermarket steering wheel

Exhaust

Racing seat

Lots of other mods

1991 Nissan 180SX modified with 200SX engine, 5 speed, 80,000 kms, Blue, $19,200 plus tyres and ORC's

Price $19,200

1991 Nissan 180SX

Colour changed from black to blue

80,000 kms

S14 engine fitted 20,000 kms ago

HKS GT2530 turbo

Aftermarket camshafts

Aftermarket oil cooler

Aftermarket intercooler

HKS F-Con V Pro computer

Aftermarket air pod filter

Numerous gauges

One owner car

17" Volk Racing wheels

Driver's seat is aftermarket

Single plate aftermarket clutch with standard gearbox

Cusco strut tower bar

Aftermarket suspension

Double-din stereo

Boost controller

Aftermarket steering wheel

Aftermarket exhaust

1992 Nissan 180SX 2L Turbo MODIFIED, 5 speed, 85,000 kms, Blue, $10,900 landed

Price $10,900

1992 Nissan 180SX 2L Turbo (SR20DET)

5 speed

85,000 kms

Blue (S15 blue metallic respray -- originally black)

Sunroof

Lowered suspension

CD and MD players

VEILSIDE front and rear strut tower bars

VEILSIDE bodykit including aero mirrors

FRP bonnet

Momo steering wheel

P1 Racing 17" white wheels

HKS F-CON V PRO computer

HKS front mount intercooler

HKS turbo

HKS exhaust

550cc injectors

HKS heavy duty clutch

Oil cooler

2-way LSD

C's quickshift gearbox

Cusco suspension upgrades

Full bodykit including aftermarket bonnet, racing mirrors, rear spoiler

Bride racing seats

Aftermarket steering wheel, gear shift knob and racing pedals

Roll cage

Numerous aftermarket gauges

Turbo timer

Etc.

Original side mirrors and original set of wheels included with the car

Condition notes: In good condition, everything works well. Engine and transmission overhauled at 60,000 kms.

Come on that car cant even compair to this 1's why would u buy so much 4 a s13?

Yes you could buy them, import them yourself and save heaps of money then start it drive it around the block only to find the engine is screwed....but then again you did save a lot of money in the first place. At least buying a car like my friends you know that is has been built very well and actually drives well considering the specs. Remember that this is a tuned to perfection rb20 putting out 250rwkw with totally stok internals. Remember also that a lot of the mods that are on cars in Japan aren't legal here so all that good stuff will have to come off.

Any way this isn't a thread about what else you can get for your money.....so if you see another car that you think is better start another thread

yeah it was a real bargain... guy mustve needed cash.

I do agree with you though, you have to start somewhere. Also if its tuned to "perfection" and everything runs sweet with no probs, thats often overlooked. You can easily buy a car with a stack of good mods, but then spend the next few months and heaps more dollars sorting out little problems that you shouldnt have to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...