Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These babies have been around for ages and are now extinct, except for the 2nd hand ones floating around which I've grabed and installed.

....It seems that nearly everyone has got over excited and posted results on the standard injectors/AFM stage and hit around the 230-240's on about 1bar/14psi....but then if they went any further, forgot to put those results up?

I've been searching for ages and can't find anyone with a solid 17psi dyno with some decent injectors/fuel pump/AFM and the usual supporting mods.

Is there anyone?

Post em up peeps!

I'll be going the 17psi in a month or too and will post it up.

Just itchin to know how people went in the meantime.

Thanks.

Birnie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165596-want-some-solid-hks-2535-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I scored 240 @ 17-18psi but running really, really, rich. (stock ecu with central 20 chip)

gtr fuel pump, stock injectors, adjustable fuel reg n other supporting mods

Waiting to get the power fc tuned, and i will keep u updated

2535? best thing in my life :):(

edit: rb25 :)

Edited by DjeMz
I scored 240 @ 17-18psi but running really, really, rich. (stock ecu with central 20 chip)

gtr fuel pump, stock injectors, adjustable fuel reg n other supporting mods

Waiting to get the power fc tuned, and i will keep u updated

2535? best thing in my life :):(

edit: rb25 :)

Now we're talking!

Geting some good results coming thru, keep em coming..... :)

DjeMz - What are you doin man!

Get an ECU and see your car come ALIVE !

cln, rob told me no one ever believed it and he did it a number of times to shut people up..

Justin911 is now using that turbo.

And no it wasnt 25psi thru the turbo.

DjeMz: Robs tuning wont disapoint you :)

djemz: rob from creatd is confident 2530s and 2535s are good for 250 and upwards.

with a 2530 he made 255 on his drift 33

Happy dyno??

Worth a review of published data from Garrett. Considering the GT28RS (aka Discopotato) with flow maps and a compressor spec near-as identical to the 2530 is rated to 320 CRANK hp, the claim seems a bit high.

Still, if that's what he got, and it's backed up by times down a strip or round a circuit, then who cares? Great result if that's what he got.

nope not a happy dyno at all, rob doesnt mock up his figures :)

He used it for drift and used to tear up 3rd gear like you wouldnt believe.

Its a HKS turbo, HKS turbos flow better and are better than the hks turbo, said by many many tuners i have spoken to.

:)

Has these figures been backed up on another dyno? Did Justin run his car at the SAU - RE Customs Dyno Day, if so what did he get?

260rwkw on a gt2535 is optermistic and claiming anything higher is just BS.

Should convince Justin to come to a SAU dyno day :(

320hp = 246.4kw at the crank @ 1bar

drive-line losses is about 30-40kw. Running 17-18psi may give you an extra 30-40rwkw, but remember this is a smallish turbo, thus will not make much more power at higher boost levels above 18psi.

was reading a old hks book the other day noticed that hks's 320 p/s power fig for 2530 is running them on only 1 bar

as was p/s ratings for 2535,2540 etc

so at 1+bar they will make more grunt period

remember HKS turbo's are manufactured to be most efficent at 1-1.5 bar

:santa:

Has these figures been backed up on another dyno? Did Justin run his car at the SAU - RE Customs Dyno Day, if so what did he get?

260rwkw on a gt2535 is optermistic and claiming anything higher is just BS.

Should convince Justin to come to a SAU dyno day :thumbsup:

320hp = 246.4kw at the crank @ 1bar

drive-line losses is about 30-40kw. Running 17-18psi may give you an extra 30-40rwkw, but remember this is a smallish turbo, thus will not make much more power at higher boost levels above 18psi.

I did the same before but assumed I was wrong Al.

340hp @1bar is on close to the edge of its efficency. Bump up the boost wont yeild massive HP gains...just some more torque.

~250 seems possible on 18psi as suugested. His drift car must be running more boost and have some decent internals.

Eitehr way its gonna be a good result from the upgrade.

past 240rwkw i dont think you will make any more power

every extra psi you dial in just induces more detonation and bugger all power per psi past 1 bar

the compressor probably cant supply any more useful past 1 bar of compressor speed

then how do people make 290 - 300 kw with a gtrs so iv read on this forum?

They don't. Dyno read outs don't mean shit unless you run all the cars on the same dyno, on the same day.

I have a HKS GTRS, with extensive head porting and Tomei cams. Boost was set to 18psi, but b4 peak power it dropped down to 16psi and made 268rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...