Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat

[Devils_Advocate21]

Ok non related, but ive got a 33 gtst and des the same thing until it reaches operating temperature, unmsure but couldnt colder plugs ie: 6's 7's heat range would give same result until temperature reached the normal range, i have also found that it is only until normal temperature ie: 78-80 deg on pfc hand controller is reached that the issues dissapears,

Interesting will keep an eye on this thread

[cash0]

Ive got the same thing when i run my standard computer. When i run a non-tuned PFC, then the problem isnt there.

^ Why would that be? Does the power fc not use this sensor when cold?

[SLIPPERY]

Yeah its weird

Cause i would have thought the power FC would use almost identical cold start maps as the OEM ecu nad would use the coolant sensor. It runs brilliant cold on the FC.

Maybe its not the sensor itself, but a little further back at the input into the ecu or something?

[Trooper]

you really want to check the coolant temp sensor. this sensor is used for fuel enrichment when the engine is cold.

chances are its stuck at a hot value (resistance) and the car is running real lean when its cold.

can measure the resistance of the sensor with an ohm meter with it disconnected or use a volt meter with it connected to see if its in spec, but either way from your description this sounds the culprit.

Can the CTS get stuck at cold value? I have a new coolant temp sensor to put in to try and solve my fuel consumption issue.

I blew a fuse on my thermo fan circuitand the car got pretty hot a few weeks back , wondering if this shagged the coolant sensor.

I got mine from nissan for $71 in Randwick - will post a part number up later.

Just a question though, is your plug for the CTS brown? The replacement I got has a blue plug, but the one thats in there now is brown

[RB30-POWER]

i've sent cash0 a pm regarding testing of the sensor, so we will have to wait and see if its the problem in this case.

[Trooper]

i've sent cash0 a pm regarding testing of the sensor, so we will have to wait and see if its the problem in this case.

No worries, I thought it was easier to buy a new sensor for $70 than it would be to test the old one - that way at least I know it should be good for a while to come (yes I am lazy).

[cash0]

i've sent cash0 a pm regarding testing of the sensor, so we will have to wait and see if its the problem in this case.

Crap, didn't notice the pm. I'll try it out asap. Cheers for the info.

[cash0]

Ok, I've checked out the coolant temp sensor with a multimeter and here are the results:

Dead Cold (<10deg): ~3.5k ohms

Hot: ~1 - 1.5k ohms

The specs for the sensor as provided by RB30-POWER:

20deg water temp 2.5k ohm (or 2500ohms)

80deg water temp 0.3k ohm (or 300ohms)

So, a little off - but it certainly doesn't look like it's stuck on a value.

Curiously though it did run quite well this morning after I tested it, maybe a dodgy connection? Anyway I'll keep a monitor on the situation.

[Twitchy]

Hi there,

I'm another victim of the infamous three legged billy goat when running cold. Exactly the same symptoms and also stops immediately when hits temp or switch engine off and then restart. I have also cleaned afm's, changed plugs, checked coils also have done the injectors. I invested in a consult cable and software and nothing really stands out, you can definitely see some weird behaviour as a result, but nothing obvious malfunctioning, no strange voltage readings or faulty instruments, well ones that the software reports on. Something to add is the other day the NDS (Nissan Data Scan) registered that i had a tps (throttle position sensor) and an ias (intake air temperature sensor) error, now i cant remember which one but one of them had happened 37 times. My battery too is now sounding a bit tired and have no idea how old it is.

Dying for a result on this one, been driving me crazy for months and months now.

Cheers

Andrew

[MBS206]

Drive around with it cold

Let it run like a billy goat.

As soon as it gets good, jump out of the car.

Unplug the Coolant temp sensor that heads to the ECU.

This is the plug that sits on the top radiator hose, and has TWO wires going to it.

See if it runs like a dog or not.

If it does, most likely CTS.

[NewKleer]

now i cant remember which one but one of them had happened 37 times. My battery too is now sounding a bit tired and have no idea how old it is.

it hasnt happened for 37 starts of the engine, not "its happened 37 times". ie big number = long ago = not an issue now.

if an error code is 0/1 starts ago, then its probably something that needs to be looked at

post consult logs

[Twitchy]

Hey there,

Unplugged the CTS and it made no difference, if anything the car ran slightly better, not sure. I must add though that the car wasn't misbehaving this morning, that shouldn't matter though right? I will gather some logs together and submit them. Your help would be very much appreiated.

Cheers,

Andrew.

Edited June 23, 2007 by Twitchy

[MBS206]

To test it, you really need the car to be misbehaving under "normal" conditions to begin with.

[Slim Mat]

Hey guys,

Me 3, when cold it feels restricted. I have to put my foot down a bit more just to accelerate. Same thing with the switch effect, gets to middle of the gauge then runs normally.

Qu: My 32 GT-R doesn't take very long to reach running temp, real quick, how long is it taking for you guys?

I have done a bit of reading into this and I have found an article saying that "the standard R32 GT-R's ECU had a miss when the engine was cold". I think that it may have been miss-interpreted as a miss but is really something else, not a dead miss, more like a restriction. This would explain why having a Power FC would fix the problem, which I have also heard about. The article that I read made out like the factory ECU has a problem, which was known about.

Another probable idea is that the ECU is running with the cold engine maps, rich mix. This would also create the same effect, however, like you said, the PFC runs fine on cold start. Perhaps it is programmed differently or as above it may suggest that the standard ECU has a fault.

[SiR_RB]

old thread but saves me starting a new one about the same problem im having

past few months ive noticed when i first start the car in the morning, everything is fine, idles perfect, no misfire etc

i let it idle for 30 or so seconds then begin to drive, this is where the problem start,

it hesitates/stutters/lack of power then as the engine temp needle starts to rise everything runs 100%

i thought it was my afms so i bought new r33 gtr ones, problem still there

just chcked my water temp sensor and it registered 3.5k ohms dead cold....yet to get a reading when hot

what else can it be its realy annoying !!

ive noticed if i let my car idle for afew mins so the temp rises abit, i can drive off with no problems !

[pistol-pete]

im pretty sure its just the ecu going into cold start mode to prevent you doing any damage to the engine

[snozzle]

i had a problem similar to this when i first bought my gtr, replaced the old bosch spark plugs that were in there to ngk's and the cold start is flawless now

[GTScotT]

Check plugs and check your idle control valves.

My money is on idle control valves. The problem will be exagerated if you do not use stock BOV's.

[Sunkist]

im pretty sure its just the ecu going into cold start mode to prevent you doing any damage to the engine

i agree with this person

Edited January 6, 2011 by AaronNM35

[SiR_RB]

i had a problem similar to this when i first bought my gtr, replaced the old bosch spark plugs that were in there to ngk's and the cold start is flawless now

hmm funny you should mention this, the car had NGK iridiums in there when i bought it, few months ago i put fresh ones in, exactly the same ones gapped to 0.8mm, im pretty sure the problem started around then, might be worth pulling the new ones out and put the old ones back in and see how it goes

thanks !

im running stocks bov's