Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd like to have a lamborghini Murcielago or an Aston Martin DB9 sitting in my garage before I considered a Ferrari.

That being said, if you can afford any of them, chances are you can afford all 3 of them :)

Ah if only we could get paid for wise quotes haha :P

Cheers bro!

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

could've been worse. a big set of chrome dinnerplates would've made it look real bad. i don't know why people put big, almost solid chrome wheels on their car. doesn't help brake ventilation, and adds a bucket load of weight onto the car.

and i'm not a big fan of huge wheels with very little sidewalls. the roads wher i live are pretty crap, and i've been in a skyline on 18's and that was bad enough. 20" wheels with no sidewall give would rattle your teeth out, and probably not be round for too long round here. first pot hole you have to get a new rim.

put HRE or iForged, it will look tough as...anyway if i can afford a ferrari i dont mind losing 20 -30 grand if i want to make it looks better or different. i've seen hamann ferrari..geez that thing is awsome!!

looks alright i reckon, fark id drive it with the 22s on the street then the stockys on the track...

would be racing with those rims! even though the car is totally engineered a simple mod like that makes it stand out from the crowd

FFS it is only a set of rims. If you have the money why not? You can change em back if you want.

LOL @ the 'made it' comment as if you only buy a Ferrari for a penis extension not cause might actually like them. Smacks of jealousy. People I know (family members etc) who have Ferraris have certainly made it, and buy whatever the f**k they want, their penis is would already be extended because they can afford the surgery if they want that!! Ferraris, $1m boats, multi million dollar houses. Whatever. It is a different lifestyle and only people who don't understand it make comments like that. :laughing-smiley-014:

ETA: Read the Ferrari forums with people modifying F40s etc. Same thinking as us modifying Skylines, they just have a bit more cash. :ninja:

Edited by GT-R32
Well he just decreased the value of that car buy 20 or 30 thousand.

Considering the cost of the vehicle itself and then the wheels also. Do you think that sort of money would really phase the owner. I sure as hell dont.

Considering the cost of the vehicle itself and then the wheels also. Do you think that sort of money would really phase the owner. I sure as hell dont.

That is still like 8% of the car, it would phase the owner in my opinion. But it's only rims, which can be changed back to standard if wanted/needed. But I seriously doubt it would have such an effect on resale on the whole to be honest.

i saw a red f430 in the metal in doncaster, and damn was it an absolute work of art.

BTW, i understand people disagreeing with the rims, but i don't understand bagging high priced euro exotics and their owners. whats up with that?

yeah man putting mags on a ferrari is the stupidest thing ever it's the biggest wank factor thing ever, hopefully it's not your car cause u just lost like 20-30 grand easy on that stupid lil move there. as they say you pay the money for a complete package why ruin it, especially with a dodgy designed wheel

Changing to aftermarket wheels does not affect the resale value of the Ferrari or any other exotics. Ferrari owners in Europe and America spend big bucks to get properly forged or magnisium 20inch + wheels, Tubi exhaust, DMS ECU flash from serious big budget aftermarket tunners, not your backyard jetspeed or Tempe! Thats how their modify their cars and yes, they do modify them!

Any red blooded man modifys his car no matter if its a Honda Civic or Lamborgini Mucielagol. Its about individuality, making your Ferrari look, sound and drive different from everyother Ferraris on the road (exotic cars are surprisingly quite common in rich parts of the world). Same concept as us Skyline owners just different pocket size, unfortunately :P

put HRE or iForged, it will look tough as...anyway if i can afford a ferrari i dont mind losing 20 -30 grand if i want to make it looks better or different. i've seen hamann ferrari..geez that thing is awsome!!

Have to agree with you here man. The Hamann F430 is awesome.

If I had the money, I'd do this for sure! :)

post-29218-1177946116.jpgpost-29218-1177946239.jpg

Want more pics? I got plenty :P

ferari = 400k

r34 gtr with shitloads of mods = 150k

r34 would blow it out of the water then and still have money left over for a nice house lol

if u can afford aferrari then i dont think u would be worrying about a house mate

most ferrari owners probably own 3 or 4 houses me reckons

a ferrari is a status thing a gtr is not. not even a z tune

your comparing apples to oranges mate

ferrari v gtr

obviously the gtr is faster but it doesny compare to the italian land mark. i dont think a ferrari owner would really care if a gtr could beat him because even though a every third person on the street would look at your r34 gtr and say oooohhh thats nice. every single person on the street would look at your ferrari and say f**k me thats nice wish i had one

and the wheels r gay. leave the stockies

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...