Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have a 300zx tt and should have done my homework first not really happy with it constantly having problems. I am looking at gtrs hopefully will be more reliable. I can spend up to 30k so cant afford a r34but should be able to get a 32 or 33. currently looking at import sites I dont mind having to wait to get the right car. it will be used for drags track days and maybe some targa but also a daily driver. feed back would be greatly appreciated. also what should I look out for

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166988-which-gtr-to-buy/
Share on other sites

Well, this has been covered a few times... so as you can see this isn't exactly the hotest topic in town...

However, I think you're better of with a R33 GT-R but make sure you do your homework, research and check out heaps of options as there are only a few around that are in good condition the rest are trashed, smoked and have been day-raped left-right and centre...

Well, for your money... R32 is way too outdated, looks like a carboard box on wheels - so in my opinion - no... a R33 on the other hand is more powerful, looks better is is newer - but again, totally up to personal preference... a R34 on the other hand, especially the GT-R's are sex on four rubbers... but don't think you can afford it, the insurance, the maintenance costs plus ongoing expenses...

That's my 2 cents... good luck anyways... with you go GT-R be prepared for the costs of maintaining one... I had the cash, but chose to go for a GT-ST instead and chuck some nice mods in... good luck mate...

EVILTD

Reliable GTR?.......Did I hear right...depends on who drove it and what mods were...on...off...on...off...on.(boost1.7Bar)..off.

if you catch my drift.......Allow $40K all up for a decent one (on the road)with some modes and has been kept well...you will know when you see one of these.

30K...budget...get a newer type car....GTTR34...a little boost and you will be happy...especially coming form a 300zx(tt).

Answer to your next question:

Cost for a r33 gtr which states it has 100K on the clock(that is if that is correct) can be around 1K all up.

This is to renew all the oils...timing belt change...spark plug change..general 100k service.

After reading a few things on gtr's you will know that renewing the turbo is the first thing you should do..that is if

they are stock..

Good luck with your choice...and as stated... a covered topic....100Times.

mate,

R32 GTR, just like me. ;)

R32 is lighter and not as FAT as the R33, so your already in front if your plans include any form of motor sport.

Race cars are based on performance not how new or old they look so don't base your decision on that.

R32 GTR = Race Car

R33 GTR = Family Coupe

R34 GTR = To expensive to trash on the track for us mere mortals.

Mine came in from Japan with only 9000 kms after a forged rebuild, look for something like that.

Keep in mind these sort of discussions have been going on since day 1 of the site. Your only ever going to get personal preference from everyone. I suggest researching this site and make your own decision based on what you find.

ah yeah - maintaining a GTR is insanely expensive

Edited by Public Enemy
mate,

R32 GTR, just like me. ;)

R32 is lighter and not as FAT as the R33, so your already in front if your plans include any form of motor sport.

Race cars are based on performance not how new or old they look so don't base your decision on that.

R32 GTR = Race Car

R33 GTR = Family Coupe

R34 GTR = To expensive to trash on the track for us mere mortals.

Mine came in from Japan with only 9000 kms after a forged rebuild, look for something like that.

Keep in mind these sort of discussions have been going on since day 1 of the site. Your only ever going to get personal preference from everyone. I suggest researching this site and make your own decision based on what you find.

ah yeah - maintaining a GTR is insanely expensive

If you think an R33 GTR is a family coupe.. then your stupid.

From factory the improvements and adjustments eg faster attesa than the 32 made it just as competative.. it's just the 32 had an oppertunity to make a name for itself around Bathhurst.

If we look at Nurburgring times, well the 33 does well as a 'family coupe' to beat the 32 by more than 20 sec:

8:22.38 147.617 km/h -- Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (Best Motoring video "Carrera Invasion")

8:01.72 153.984 km/h -- Nissan Skyline R33 GT-R, (Best Motoring video "Carrera Invasion")

I love both because they are absolute animals for road cars... lets not kid ourselves and say that one is far inferior because it LOOKS a bit heavier and bigger, when in reality the 33 is not packing that many more kilos and goes just as hard.

You've got the fun bit to choose which one appeals more to you... but family coupe pffft

22 seconds slower on a car thats lighter, and has quicker 1/4 mile times is alot... Whats carrera invasion? 22 seconds = differences in the attessa?

Anyways, if u ask me u should choose which car u like the looks of better, and go with that. If it's a 32 u can get a rebuilt one for around 30k, a 33 gtr from 25-30k will be standard but has less K's and less wear.. so yeh go for what you reckon looks better.. but the 33 will probably save u some hassles

For your 30k I'd look for a rebuilt 32gtr. When looking at a 33 gtr the only thing you'll get for 30k is one with a worn motor and turbos (generally).

Be aware that you are buying a car with a few years behind it so set aside money for general repairs.

If $30k was my budget I would wait patiently for a good R33 GTR to come up at private sale from someone who is in need of a quick sale. These come up every so often ranging from $25k +

There was even one post the other day where someone would take "anything over $20k" as he was trading it in on a new car and that's all they would give him in trade in.

Now once I had found a desperate seller I would go over the car with a find tooth comb and then be prepared to reject it and keep waiting patiently. Eventually you would find a car that, while not perfect, is probably worth spending the money on. I'm saying you might find a $30k car for $27k. Which leaves just enough for insurance.

I would then probably use the time spent looking for the car to save up a bit more money for a full service.

22 seconds slower on a car thats lighter, and has quicker 1/4 mile times is alot... Whats carrera invasion? 22 seconds = differences in the attessa?

Nissan made improvements everywhere, they didn't just take an R32 stack on some weight and call it a day. The R33 has an improved chassis along with other improvements which means overall it's lap times are generally better than an R32.

you can definately find a good condition R33 for around 30K, but it will take a while to appear on the market. ideally you want a buyer who has to sell because they are having a baby, or because they just got married and they need a house deposit.

then take the car to a mechanic to get it checked out. these GT-Rs do exist, as DR-ENVY and myself both found our cars in this way.

well as usual Sewid has very sound advice. to be honest the type you buy (32vs33) is no where near as important as the particular car you buy. there are stunning, mint condition 32 GTRs out there, and there are thrashed, crashed dodgey 33s out there. same works in reversve too.

for $30K you should be able to find a nice condition (either very low km, or restored/modified) R32 GTR, possibly even a Vspec or VspecII, or you can find a nice, stock 33 GTR.

anyone who owns a 33 is going to tell you 33 is the best. everyone who owns a 32 is going to tell you 32 is the best. I have owned both 32 and 33 GTR at the same time, and all I can tell you is that they are 'different' try some of each for yourself.

anyone who owns a 33 is going to tell you 33 is the best. everyone who owns a 32 is going to tell you 32 is the best. I have owned both 32 and 33 GTR at the same time, and all I can tell you is that they are 'different' try some of each for yourself.

Great Input Advice Beer baron. How jealous I am of you. tell me .. do you need both those cars? U want to swap ur 33 GTR for my GTST dont ya ? :)

If i found someone saying "Ill take anything over 20 for my 33GTR", I would fall over. I havnt seen any under 30, and those that are were under 30, (high 28-29), were not in great condition, lets say. engine rebuild was obviously nessesary and panels were damaged. And this also was cars that were on the import list. Not already here. Good condition your looking at about 35k or there abouts Possibly 30k if you wait or bargain.

But like as the previous guys have said, it comes down to personal pref. You said u want daily driver? you need to weigh what is more important, racing or daily, 60-40, 70-30. wateva the ratio. ask yourself Which tool would suit you better?. if its a race car. the r32 is easier to compete with as its lighter. and slightly quicker with a few mods. and more simple. where as the r33 is a much smoother and comfortable ride. slightly heavier but Almost as quick as the r32 as its got the extra power from a more refined rb26. + suspention better, atessa, electronic hicas system not mechanical like it is in the R32. etc.

Myself I would get a R33 just because I absolutely love the look of a r33. But if i had the money I would go for a r34. simply because the best GTR model, But i just cannot justify spending that amount on a car, But if i was building a dedicated race car, I would use a r32 and rip everything out. :).

- My 2c.

Edited by silverbulletR33

The market is awesome for buyers at the moment. I am so happy I kept my car. I have not had to do any maintenance/repairs at all (aside from oil changes), compression is spot on, has a known history and fu(k all kms. And I was willing to part with it for near $30k. Thank goodness I didn't, I wouldn't know what else to get for that kind of money.

Look carefully, but not unreasonably, and you will get an awesome car. Both R33 and R32. But on the whole a R33 is newer, so aside from big things potentially having been rebuilt on the R32s, everything else has been subjected to less whether and possibly wear on the R32. Something to keep in mind.

I like how everyone gets hung up on a particular model and suddenly there is a world full of experts on price. What you need to understand is that you would have got a fairly similar reaction if you had have nominated what colour you wanted your car to come in.....

From buying too many cars (GT-R's among them) I would offer the following.

Buy a good car not a specification.

What does that mean?

Well it is far less important to get a black, V-Spec 11 1994 & a half or whatever than it is to get a good car. Like Baron said a good R32 is netter than a poor 33 & vice versa. The cachet of a V-spec badge is meaningless if the car is tired. All GT-R's are inherently fine cars.

Buy a good car, not a price.

What does that mean?

It is less important to spend, say $25k or $30k than it is to get a good car. If the thing costs a couple of thousands of dollars more then pay the money. At the end of the day the car is more important than the price.

Buy a good car, not a list of modifications.

What does that mean?

With Skylines there is a slight tendency for everyone to want either a fully built car or, more commonly an untouched example. The best bet is to take them as they come, if you don't like some of the stuff on it, wait a while by which time you will probably have come round to liking it.

Make sure you know what to look for.

This means both knowing what to inspect for failure/wear to prevent you having to pay heaps to fix it & also what to expect will be tired/stuffed because it is a traight of the car.

Sounds advice djr. Certainly comes from someone who has owned a lot of cars in the past.

I myself have had over 30 cars and am currently 23. However I plan to keep my GTR for at least a while :P There are some things you can write off as minor, and some not. You need to not get hung up on details effectively. Not get emotional, impatient etc etc.

There are good deals out there if you look. I bot a '95 R33 GTR V-spec for $25K from a guy would couldn't afford it after buying it from a dealer for $35k 4 month previously. 60ish k's and box stock (except exhaust). Find a very good mechanic who knows GTR's and make sure he goes over any car before you get serious. They can be very expensive to maintain and you want to make sure you know what you are getting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...