Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok well my car went threw a sign on the weekend and im selling it for parts

i live in melb, the car is a 1994 series 1 r33 gun-metal grey non-turbo (only different parts are brakes, rotors,diff , engine, instrument panel and ecu)

Whats damaged: front bar, front reo, front bulk head, aircon condensor, radiator, front left fender, front left wheel arch, front left lower suspention support arm, headlights

Car was not full comp insuried so car is not a wirte off.

pretty much everything is avaliable apart from engine, transmission and diff.

car had done 75 000 original kms and is was in mint condition, ill put up pics tommorow when i get my camera out.

some prices for popularish items are as following

Compelte car repairable no engine or wiring, no trans, no diff, including 4 stud stock rims $4500 great if someone wants to get a front car and put any engine in it.

Complete stripped shell reparable not written off $1500

Tail lights mint condition $100 each

boot-lid absolutly no dents with series 1 spoiler painted gun-metal grey and inside lining $450, will separate spoiler

doors no dents very $450 Each including trims, $350 without trims

Seats no visable wear $150 each, including rear seat, will include rails if needed

side indicators orange $40 each

way more parts avaliable just send me a pm cheers Jarrod

PS located in MELBOURNE south east neer knox city

post-21352-1179311173_thumb.jpg

post-21352-1179311366_thumb.jpg

post-21352-1179311585_thumb.jpg

post-21352-1179311781_thumb.jpg

post-21352-1179312016_thumb.jpg

post-21352-1179312225_thumb.jpg

Edited by unarmed_skyline

Im after the black bit of trim off the boot...

Plastic bit that surrounds the bootlid latch.. (not actually on the boot lid but the rear of the car)

ill get a pic if you dont know what i mean..

I snapped mine yesterday

unfortuanally thats probably the only trim piece on the whole car thats broken, i cracked it when i was taking it off to take my skyline garnish off

PM sent,

couldnt up-load pics yet as couldnt find my camera cable

just rememered i also have a stock series 1 front bar $100 and front garnish(no s badge) $20

also all the windows are in perfect condision, seat belts have absolutly no frey on them so they are 100% roadworthy if anyone needs them,

i have ab-flug side skirts painted grey that were moulded onto the car(still are) i should be able to take them off but they would probably need another ret-ro fit and possibly a re-paint(depending on what needs to be done) to re-fit them

PM me if theres anything you think you need and i can have a look see what i got lying round

Looking for a set of R33 E-brake cables. Would you happen to have a set from this vehicle? I am willing to pay via PayPal or what ever means you would like ASAP. Thanks mate.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...