Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI Everyone

Warning this maybe a silly questions for some but im still learning about boost and turbos Thanks

i have a delema i have heard that on stock intercooler and stock turbo the most u can boost is 14psi and the setup goes bang bang bye bye. so my questions is if you get a bigger intercooler can you boost it up to 15-16 psi or is the turbo going to got bye bye or do u need a high flow turbo if you want 15-16 psi

any help is muchly appreciated sorry if i posted this in the wrong spot

Thanks :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167257-when-turbos-go-bang/
Share on other sites

the general rule, is max boost for stock turbo is 14psi; most people have found this is where the turbo makes its max power, so even if you turn up the boost doesnt mean you will make more turbo.

If you want to run more boost, then look at buying an aftermarket turbo or getting your stock turbo highflow

^^ was about to say the same thing.. PSI is just a measurement of the pressure in the manifold.. A high-flow running @ 14PSI will generate alot more air than a normal turbo running @ 14psi..

Also - as you've got a R33 Gts-t, advised boost on stock turbo is 10 - 12psi, any more and you risk shattering the ceramic exhaust wheel..

thanks for all the input i think i will get a intercooler and run the lower boost like link said. i dont want to spend big money on all this. if i do have a bigger cooler and run 8psi daily driver and 12 for race day will this work okay and not ruin anything to quick. i dont want to hear bang ssssss when some thing decides to die on its arse haha

thanks

OK as Links said, I would NOT advise going over 12psi, 14psi is too much, WHY? 33gtst have a ceramic wheel in the turbo, great for low spool due to how light it is however it cracks and shatters under heat.. NO a turbo timer will not resolve the issue. Its when its at full boost etc when it gets too hot and out the exhaust pipe it goes.

In summer I would not go anywhere over 10psi, i have been through enough turbos now to advise you of this.

mine still went at 11psi from standard wheels, so now have high flows, I am now on my third high flow and i recommend not taking high flows over 16psi... sure i can put it up to 22psi but it dont last long! a general highflow of the standard turbo i would not take over 16. remember 4psi from a high flowed turbo is more than 4 psi from a standard turbo.

I have generaly paid about $1000 for my highflows. I love highflows, still the same low spool due to the same housings etc and a nice bit of boost.

By the way shenron i saw you on the freeway tonight, i was in my 1979 laser at the time so not noticable.

Before you get intercooler I would do ecu or SAFC to get air fuel mixtures sorted PLUS a dump and down pipe from your standard turbo, i managed to putt 290rwhp off standard turbo which back in the day was quite good....until it blew :-(*

i would get the intercooler before I get an safc or ecu

lower intake temps , less heat and stress and far less restriction than the stock cooler . assuming you have a full 3 inch exhaust 1st .

free up these restrictions 1st before you try and add more power through boost/ecu

i have a 3inch dump pipe straight though to a canon and i have a pod and so fourth so then next mod was going to be the cooler but i will take this in to my budget to see what i can afford and go from there thanks for the advice.

was ur laser white i think i saw one laser surprising i didnt try race u haha there was a volvo and a prajero that want to run last night and a celica hahaha.

Before you get intercooler I would do ecu or SAFC to get air fuel mixtures sorted PLUS a dump and down pipe from your standard turbo, i managed to putt 290rwhp off standard turbo which back in the day was quite good....until it blew :-(*

You got 290rwhp out of a standard turbo and ecu? What sorta mods did you run?

You got 290rwhp out of a standard turbo and ecu? What sorta mods did you run?

Sorry Jie should have explained myself better - Was running SAFC and ITC Combo so fuel and air plus ignition timing was looked after.

what else? dump down pipe... the cat went for a walk for a little while in the exhaust but she came back now, fuel pump, Blitz duel SBC air filter.... then the usual after that, cam gears advanced timing etc etc. It DID have and still has one of the most expensive coolers on the market (custom made by Micks Metalcraft) installed at the time my quote above though was based on the fact that the standard turbo with supporting mods can make nice power.

Ummm yeah the dyno was recorded on the Dyno dynamics at PSI so we may have a bit of a problem getting it off there. Both mine and gtstvspec managed to get that kind of power but paul had a nice greddy plenum attached to his.

Even at 12 psi the turbo blew...... maybe with Pauls plenum thats why his turbo didnt blow like mine... or did it?

I thought a nice turbo backe xhaust, fmic, safc and a boost controller would yeild 260-280rwhp normally in a gtst at approx 11-12psi on stock turbo

mmmm tempting to get back into a skyline lol

im running a series 1 rb25 on an rb20 (series 1 is mean to be smaller/weaker) and i have been running it at 18psi for the past 2 months and it has not had a single problem lol. It doesnt matter if it does blow because the engine and turbo are just temporary, but yeah just thought id add that in haha. Not a single problem so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...